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There are 2 ways to get it tighter. First is to use the new worm gear part: http://rebrickable.com/parts/15457/Technic-Worm-Gear-2-Axle-Holes The other is to use an axle with stop. Have the stop on the end which has the worm gear pulling it in. Not sure which end that is, so experimenting would be your best bet.


This is very old-school, but that's how I was doing SNOT in the early 80's: a plate, or a tile (as shown) snaps between 2 studs. I prefer tiles to plates, as I don't have studs-alignment issues, but I've used both, and both work.


You could introduce an arbitrarily sized gap between the red and yellow bushes in the depicted design, thus forcing the other yellow bush and the black gear against the frame. If this gap collapses due to the forces generated by the worm screw, you could place thinner, non-LEGO pieces (washers, bits of paper, etc.) between them to act as spacers. This won't ...


Pre-tensioning or pre-loading, the way that most CNC machines work. In essence this means a constant force pushing one way, so that the slop doesn't matter. Often you can do this with gravity, and if slop at one (or two) when you rotate is acceptable then that may be all you need. If you do have variable-gravity parts that need pre-tensioning, try to make ...


Lego NXT vacuum cleaner project included charging station http://www.plastibots.com/index.php/2010/11/13/pulito-featuring-dflex/


You can wedge a 1xN plate between studs (at a 90 degree angle) to the "normal" orientation. Repeat a second time, and now 2 bricks are stud-to-stud.

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