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10

If it's your own creation, you should be able to adapt your model to fit the rack you have. One tricky problem I can see is if your construction is built as most studless models are nowadays and features uneven dimensions - which means a 7 rack is indeed easier than a 8. You can of course build something around the old 1x4 rack place but it might get ...


10

To create a smooth surface with cheese slopes they must be offset by one-half plate in height. There are several techniques to do this. Here is one using the common "headlight" brick. It has the advantage of being extendable to nearly any length.


7

One possible solution might be to use one of the new 1x1 round plates with open studs and a Bar with Clip


7

The city people pack is probably 9348: Community Minifigure Set based on the clasic space minifig print. The numbered bags are probably from 4635: Fun With Vehicles - that's based on the colours and the lime green/"bright yellow/green" cap. I think the first 2 bags are from 6118: Wheels and Tyres. This set has the same number of the small (8x) and bigger ...


7

MEK is the way to go - it's what the Masterbuilders at the LEGOLAND parks use. I once brought a miniland sized model from London to the US in my main suitcase that had been glued with MEK and the model was fully intact when I got to the other end! As others have said, it is VERY nasty when breathed in. Do not even think about using it in confined spaces ...


7

When weight is applied on the structure, the wheels are are creating a twisting motion that will eventually dissasemble the 1x6 beams. With the extra structural part when a load is applied there is a lot of flexing but the 1x6 beams are staying in place. Effectively, the axle is preventing the beams from rotating out of place.


7

Why not use just two jumper plates (3794), one on the top and one on the bottom? No more additional are pieces required. You can also replace the stack of 1x1 round bricks with a single Support 1 x 1 x 6 Solid Pillar (43888) piece. The piece is used in conjunction with a large swinging vault door in the Bank & Money Transfer (3661) set. The brick ...


6

There seems to be basically two choices. You can either build a larger version than the traditional cube, or you can build something that doesn't stay together very well. There's a nice example of a small cube on Sebastians Sand's Brickshelf: While this looks like it would work, I can't imagine that it holds together through many rotations. If you are ...


6

This would be a way but other techniques may suit you as well.


6

You can always brick-build a wheel. The curved slope pieces can closely approximate a circle. For example, 12 4x1 curved slopes gives a circle with a radius of 160 LDUs (8 studs). For more information on brick-built wheels, I suggest you refer to the "Brick Built LEGO Wheels Book": ...


6

5-fold symmetries are difficult to build in LEGO, especially at small scale. Here is an attempt, still a bit bulky... LDraw file here.


5

Would this solve your problem? Depending on the direction of the input, only one axle will turn.


5

There are 2 ways to get it tighter. First is to use the new worm gear part: http://rebrickable.com/parts/15457/Technic-Worm-Gear-2-Axle-Holes The other is to use an axle with stop. Have the stop on the end which has the worm gear pulling it in. Not sure which end that is, so experimenting would be your best bet.


5

45° angles are tricky because of the dimensions of 45-45-90 triangles: The fact that the hypotenuse needs to be a multiple of radical two makes it difficult to build out of LEGO plates which are generally limited to integers or halves. The best you can do in a reasonably small amount of space is a 5 x 5 x 7.07 triangle, but that doesn't come close enough ...


5

It appears that some LEGO pieces are designed with the proportions of 45-degree right triangles in mind. For example, the 3x3 plate with one corner removed has a diagonal edge that is very close to three studs long, as can be seen in this construction: Likewise, the 8x8 corner plate has a diagonal edge that is very close to 10 studs long:


5

You could try something like this if you have Technic beams available:


5

I think I have a valid semi-legal design, it is good for display models, although Philo's answer to this question provided an excellent design for playing-with models. I now have to decide if I want playabiliy or good looks on the model.


4

Eurobricks forum has hundreds of official sets in LDD format here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=41226&#entry727293


4

According to the BrickLink inventory, there should be three extra parts, so 9 seems a bit high. It could be a mistake from LEGO, but honestly it's more likely that you forgot them yourself. Knowing what the 6 parts are through Bricklink, I suggest you check the model once more to verify where they could go.


4

Might not be ideal, but have you tried replacing each Crossblock 2x3 with a Crossblock 90 and a Technic Lever 2M? You lose a little bit of stability on the bottom edge with only two pin connections instead of four, but I think it'll do the job just fine. The new parts list is then: 2x Crossblock 90 Deg 2x Technic Angle Beam 4x2 90 Deg 2x Technic Lever ...


4

Hinges can work, I have used this technique before, if you sandwich the hinges between two plates you get 45 degree 'bricks' that are quite solid. In most cases, tiles and plates in the right place will keep sufficient contact with the base plate to have a stable model.


4

This is very old-school, but that's how I was doing SNOT in the early 80's: a plate, or a tile (as shown) snaps between 2 studs. I prefer tiles to plates, as I don't have studs-alignment issues, but I've used both, and both work.


4

You could introduce an arbitrarily sized gap between the red and yellow bushes in the depicted design, thus forcing the other yellow bush and the black gear against the frame. If this gap collapses due to the forces generated by the worm screw, you could place thinner, non-LEGO pieces (washers, bits of paper, etc.) between them to act as spacers. This won't ...


4

It looks like LEGO sells chain and sprockets, don't know if you'd have them lying around though. You could also try using pulleys instead. If you don't have any of the actual pulleys, take the tread off of two wheels and stretch a rubber band across, that should work too.


4

To expand on Zhaph's answer, I'm assuming that you have a fixed set of six colors, and each block is one color. If that's the case, this is a simple combination problem on top of the orientation problem. Since there are six colors and six bricks, there are 6! ways to assign those six colors to the six bricks, or 720 ways. Now, we apply this combination to ...


3

Pre-tensioning or pre-loading, the way that most CNC machines work. In essence this means a constant force pushing one way, so that the slop doesn't matter. Often you can do this with gravity, and if slop at one (or two) when you rotate is acceptable then that may be all you need. If you do have variable-gravity parts that need pre-tensioning, try to make ...


3

Building a staircase out of bricks is easy enough, but uses a lot of brick pieces, as zovits already answered. If you want to achieve something faster, with fewer pieces, you could look into the spiral-staircase-piece or the regular staircase piece. The spiral staircase piece combines with some plate+pin pieces (bottom, top) and some posts. You can ...


3

Wouldn't the one ring bind them all?


3

It's structural, but not really mandatory: The full (4 pages) instruction can be found by googling or e.g. there: http://lego.brickinstructions.com/lego_instructions/set/6847/Space_Dozer


3

I think this is how we did it as kids. However, it was 1970s. Probably too primitive, clumsy, or against the rules now.



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