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8

Have you considered screwing your decorations to the metal stand, using Technic brick holes to pass the screws? If done properly no harm is done to the bricks, and you will not fear a bad glue joint!


6

MEK is the way to go - it's what the Masterbuilders at the LEGOLAND parks use. I once brought a miniland sized model from London to the US in my main suitcase that had been glued with MEK and the model was fully intact when I got to the other end! As others have said, it is VERY nasty when breathed in. Do not even think about using it in confined spaces ...


5

I mounted baseplates to a sheet of plywood in order to hang a mosaic as follows: Roughly sand the plywood and the backs of the baseplates. Squirt a generous helping of Liquid Nails on one of the surfaces. Lay out your baseplates on the plywood using regular plates as spacers (i.e., attach plates across the boundaries between two baseplates in order to ...


5

You could always put a screw through a 2x2 plate and use it to fix the corners, the rounded corners on the road plates won't be damaged, and you only lose a very small, cheap part.


3

I'm always hesitant to recommend gluing LEGO as it is so much against the spirit of LEGO. Have you considered using the magnet bricks? They come in several regular LEGO brick sizes, and they stick to metal surfaces just fine. If you must use glue, most glues will readily stick to the plastic, so that is no problem. What you need to check is what glues work ...


2

I use Kragle for putting together the Lego kits, but not any of the removeable pieces or the lego figures. I use a medium viscosity kind of Cyanoacrylate hobby glue. Just have to be careful to not get it on your fingers and your eyes.


2

Unfortunately older stickers are difficult to remove and reapply because the sticky part of the paper tend to rip off and leave a residue on the LEGO element itself. But the fact of the matter is that applying that taking off and re-applying even a new sticker is a challenge and it will almost always be visibly damaged at least a little bit. Your best bet ...


2

There are three factors you have to consider here: the possible chocking hazard for your child, the possible toxicity of the glue to your child, and the degree of removability of the glue. I don't think there exist a glue that is (1) completely secure (i.e. won't allow small parts to become chocking hazards), (2) safe to be handled and possibly ingested, ...


1

Your question doesn't explain why you want to glue the models for a 4 year old, so I'm going to go ahead and advocate that you don't glue and instead let your 4 year old build. 4 years old is a great time to be learning the fine motor skills, geometry, physics, colour and esthetics, not to mention creativity and storytelling. Gluing the models takes away ...


1

Have you considered using velcro-strips? You can cut it to whatever size you want and it won't permanently damage your basepalces like glue wood. And there is also various versions of two-sided tape. Some of them are very strong and can even hold picture-frames on walls. So they should definitely hold baseplates down.



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