Hot answers tagged manipulation
You could try the great brick separator. Designed for this specific purpose, it's probably your best bet.
A 1x1x5 brick has enough leverage to remove most jumper plates. Apply pressure to the top of the brick and pull or push away from the length of the jumper plate. Even a 1x1 brick works in certain cramped places, although It doesn't provide as much leverage.
I reproduced the problem and got the axle out using a sculpting tool (similar to an awl). It's a sharp point made of hard metal. (Soft metal will actually bend, believe me, I tried three tools.) I inserted the point in the space left by the axle groove and pried the axle out. The point of the tool was against the axle while the body of the tool was pushing ...
I normally use two big bricks: one on the top and one at the bottom. Then you push down while rotating.
Or you could use, guess what, a new brick separator: I just noticed this one appearing on BrickLink and have no idea in what set it will come out, or if it will be sold separately, or if it will work with jumpers.
I'll try to show how I'd do this using a 2x12 plate (or something similar). Imagine you're looking at it from the side: _n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_ --> Pull | narrow, long plate _n_ | jumper plate _n_n_n_n_n_n_ | baseplate n = stud Just attach a plate or brick to the top of ...
You can use some sugar liquid to use as temporary glue to make the head stuck to the torso. Then wait till the sugar is sticky and then try to remove the helmet. Once the helmet is loose you can put the head and torso in warm water to loosen the sugar glue and take it off. Then wash thoroughly to remove remaining sugar.
There's the great LEGO Brick Separator that can be bought in the LEGO Online Shop: i love this thing, it's just great if you want to take care of your nails and teeth.
the best way i found out till now is to get them of as good as possible with your nails or a plastic-knife (i wouldn't recommend to use metal knifes or razorblades - if you do, be careful to avoid scratching the bricks surface) and then remove the remaining glue with: pure alcohol or glass cleaner cheap hairspay (spray 2-3 seconds from very close distance ...
In addition to the Brick Separator, there are some parts that work well for this Original here.
Push the Technic pin in a beam hole, then insert a rod (antenna or minifig tool handle) into the hole in the pin from the other side. The rod will prevent the "lips" of the pin from closing in, therefore preventing the pin from leaving the beam. Then you can pull on anything attached to the other end of the pin. This example below shows the removal of a pin ...
A trick that's worked for me in the past, is to use a 1x1 cone with a Technic axle in it (it needs to be the cone without the top groove, unlike the example below) - this will allow you to force the tapered end of the cone into the hole on the bottom of the head, and by fastening a Technic gearwheel, brick or larger cylinder to the Technic axle, you'll be ...
Often in these cases, I have been able to flex the plate the piece is on a little. This allows you to get a fingernail or small tool under the lip of the thing in the middle of the larger plate. If you don't flex too much, you won't do any permanent damage to it.
I performed my own experiments to determine which methods work by randomly applying three stickers (which are similar to the stickers that come in LEGO sets) onto a simple brick wall. Using my finger nails to peel the stickers worked well. This is how I've always removed stickers and in my experience, I haven't had any problems doing so. Heating the ...
As I've said before in another answer, I find the #92585 Crowbar is the most versatile and is especially good at removing rubber bands from the #3736 (Technic, Steering Pulley Large) and the #4185 (Technic, Wedge Belt Wheel) elements. Don't use any sharp/metallic objects like a screwdriver or a pen knife as you may scratch the brick or sever the rubber band....
Best to remove as much as you can by mechanical means (plastic spatula/fingernail, nothing harder unless you like scratching your bricks) then use some 'Sticky Stuff Remover' to get the sticky residue off. This stuff works on just about anything without leaving a mark, Lego is made from ABS and will not be affected by it.
In most cases it's best to to pry a brick by it's length (the bricks longest side). The base of the hinge brick can be removed with a crowbar. The crowbar brick is fairly new and exists only in a few sets but I consider it to be the most versatile. There are many other minifig utensils that can be helpful in removing different types of bricks: ...
I was able to successfully get that size band off of that pulley using this brick separator: I slid the sharp end in between the band and the pulley then worked it under the band and was able to pull the band off without damaging either part. If you don't have a brick separator handy, you can probably use a pointy minifig utensil such as a sword instead. ...
Use the new Jumper Tile 2.0 instead! Easier to remove! Comes in many1 colors2! Advanced features3! Comes in many colours4! Lighter than the old, clumsy version! Don't wait, contact your closest LEGO reseller to upgrade your collection of obsolete jumpers to new, shiny ones! 1. Three. 2. U.S. version only. 3. The same as Jumper 1.0, plus Easier removal 4. U....
Take your cross axle: And push it into the hole where your pin connector had stuck
I use a fingernail most times, or a guitar pick if the bricks are stuck too firmly.
I (and my sons) use a plastic knife designed for children. We found ours in IKEA (larger bricks for houses) I have also used this lego tool with moderate success
I once got myself into a situation much like this. What I did was unfold a paperclip and insert the end of it into one of the four corners of open space of the hole that one of the axles was in. Then, I pulled the part of the paper clip out in such a way as to make the most friction between the paper clip and the axle, causing the axle to slide out a bit. I ...
A pair of needle nose pliers might just do the trick, or some sturdy tweezers - however it might leave some scratches on the axle (thus limiting the no-damaging). I assume there's another 2 axle in the the other side stopping the use of a wooden toothpick or similar pushing it through from the other end? The joiner has an inner lip, but is hollow if I ...
Your problem is that the clutch (what holds bricks together) between the helmet and the head is too high, and in any case higher than the clutch between head and torso. This means the solution is to increase the clutch between the head and another part you'll use to remove it. I would first recommend trying other torsos, maybe one has enough clutch to ...
A quick and easy way to remove a helmet stuck onto the head...I tried something similar to the toilet tissue paper idea above. I used a piece of Bounty kitchen roll, approximately 3cm x 3cm, (which is actually thicker then a single ply toilet tissue) and placed this over the stub of the body then pushed the head onto this. The head will not go all the way ...
Using a cut-pipe into a clip-with-tube will let you build a secure and precise angle. If you have a solid brick behind the headlight bricks you can fix the angle by cutting the pipe at the right length.
I figured out a solution while waiting for answers. The tool I used for it was a universal T20 bit which most people have or can easily get access to. I took some documenting pictures of it which I would like to share here.
Use the new brick separator: ...when it becomes available.
One option that may minimize damage to the axle would be to find a mini chuck (left) or micro chuck (right) (i.e. a very small chuck, like a pin chuck) with 4 collet prongs that stick out far enough from the nose cap and are small enough to insert between the rim of the hole and the axle: Then you could tighten it down so the 4 prongs grip the cross ...
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