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38

You could try the great brick separator. Designed for this it's probably your best bet.


24

A 1x1x5 brick has enough leverage to remove most jumper plates. Apply pressure to the top of the brick and pull or push away from the length of the jumper plate. Even a 1x1 brick works in certain cramped places, although It doesn't provide as much leverage.


18

I reproduced the problem and got the axle out using a sculpting tool (similar to an awl). It's a sharp metal point made out of hard metal. Soft metal will actually bend (believe me I tried three tools). I insert the point in the space left by the axle groove and pried the axle out. The point of the tool is against the axle while the body of the tools is ...


16

I normally use two big bricks: one on the top and one at the bottom. Then you push down while rotating.


13

I'll try to show how I'd do this using a 2x12 plate (or something similar). Imagine you're looking at it from the side: _n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_ --> Pull | narrow, long plate _n_ | jumper plate _n_n_n_n_n_n_ | baseplate n = stud Just attach a plate or brick to the top of ...


12

There's the great LEGO Brick Separator that can be bought in the LEGO Online Shop: i love this thing, it's just great if you want to take care of your nails and teeth.


11

the best way i found out till now is to get them of as good as possible with your nails or a plastic-knife (i wouldn't recommend to use metal knifes or razorblades - if you do, be careful to avoid scratching the bricks surface) and then remove the remaining glue with: pure alcohol or glass cleaner cheap hairspay (spray 2-3 seconds from very close distance ...


10

Or you could use, guess what, a new brick separator: I just noticed this one appearing on BrickLink and have no idea in what set it will come out, or if it will be sold separately, or if it will work with jumpers.


8

In addition to the Brick Separator, there are some parts that work well for this Original here.


8

Often in these cases, I have been able to flex the plate the piece is on a little. This allows you to get a fingernail or small tool under the lip of the thing in the middle of the larger plate. If you don't flex too much, you won't do any permanent damage to it.


7

In most cases it's best to to pry a brick by it's length (the bricks longest side). The base of the hinge brick can be removed with a crowbar. The crowbar brick is fairly new and exists only in a few sets but I consider it to be the most versatile. There are many other minifig utensils that can be helpful in removing different types of bricks: ...


7

I performed my own experiments to determine which methods work by randomly applying three stickers (which are similar to the stickers that come in LEGO sets) onto a simple brick wall. Using my finger nails to peel the stickers worked well. This is how I've always removed stickers and in my experience, I haven't had any problems doing so. Heating the ...


7

Best to remove as much as you can by mechanical means (plastic spatula/fingernail, nothing harder unless you like scratching your bricks) then use some 'Sticky Stuff Remover' to get the sticky residue off. This stuff works on just about anything without leaving a mark, Lego is made from ABS and will not be affected by it.


6

Use the new Jumper Tile 2.0 instead! Easier to remove! Comes in many1 colors2! Advanced features3! Comes in many colours4! Lighter than the old, clumsy version! Don't wait, contact your closest LEGO reseller to upgrade your collection of obsolete jumpers to new, shiny ones! 1. Three. 2. U.S. version only. 3. The same as Jumper 1.0, plus Easier removal 4. ...


5

Take your cross axle: And push it into the hole where your pin connector had stuck


5

As I've said before in another answer, I find the #92585 Crowbar is the most versatile and is especially good at removing rubber bands from the #3736 (Technic, Steering Pulley Large) and the #4185 (Technic, Wedge Belt Wheel) elements. Don't use any sharp/metallic objects like a screwdriver or a pen knife as you may scratch the brick or sever the rubber ...


5

I was able to successfully get that size band off of that pulley using this brick separator: I slid the sharp end in between the band and the pulley then worked it under the band and was able to pull the band off without damaging either part. If you don't have a brick separator handy, you can probably use a pointy minifig utensil such as a sword instead. ...


5

I use a fingernail most times, or a guitar pick if the bricks are stuck too firmly.


4

I (and my sons) use a plastic knife designed for children. We found ours in IKEA (larger bricks for houses) I have also used this lego tool with moderate success


4

One option that may minimize damage to the axle would be to find a mini chuck (left) or micro chuck (right) (i.e. a very small chuck, like a pin chuck) with 4 collet prongs that stick out far enough from the nose cap and are small enough to insert between the rim of the hole and the axle: Then you could tighten it down so the 4 prongs grip the cross ...


4

It depends in what type of beams the pin are mounted. For studless Nicael's methode is the easiest. Otherwise you can use method 3 For studded beams you can use variation on this methode. take a axle of 6 or 8 long, 5 or 7 other beams and some plates. Stack the beam side by side and lock them together with the plates. Place the beam with the pin on top pin ...


4

Immerse the stuck assembly in soapy water, swoosh them around a bit, then try again. That should do the trick. It is okay to wiggle the piece a bit from side to side to try to loosen it up. Even ABS plastic LEGO pieces are somewhat flexible and they won't break if you flex them a bit. If nothing else works you may have to resort to plyers. Use the kind ...


3

A pair of needle nose pliers might just do the trick, or some sturdy tweezers - however it might leave some scratches on the axle (thus limiting the no-damaging). I assume there's another 2 axle in the the other side stopping the use of a wooden toothpick or similar pushing it through from the other end? The joiner has an inner lip, but is hollow if I ...


3

A flat-style staple remover (as opposed to the jaws style) does well to maintain the surface of a stuck brickage. It also can be jimmied back and forth without much slippage.


3

Use the new brick separator: ...when it becomes available.


2

I have used a razor blade to remove the sticker, then a wee bit of food oil to remove the residual glue. Sometimes just using some tape and a repetitive dubbing motion have done the trick as well.


2

Place a regular 1x2 plate on top of it (the hollow stud of the jumper plate fits around the post in the bottom of the 1x2), and apply lateral force to the combination. They should come off together. Then rotate the two to separate them from each other.


2

If you don't care about preserving the old sticker, remove it with your fingers or a plastic knife and then use rubbing alcohol to remove the remaining sticky bits. As other posters have noted, metal knives/razors leave the risk of scratching the plastic bricks - it all depends on the level of confidence in your knife/razor skills. I use alcohol instead of ...


2

I have resorted to brute force in the past. By which I mean destructive removal of the pins. I use a Dremel tool with a 2mm drill bit or 3mm router bit to carve away at the pin until it disintegrates. The new style pins sell for about 0.3c each on Bricklink, so if you're assembling a model it makes sense to just buy a pile of new pins and and use those ...


2

I once got myself into a situation much like this. What I did was unfold a paperclip and insert the end of it into one of the four corners of open space of the hole that one of the axles was in. Then, I pulled the part of the paper clip out in such a way as to make the most friction between the paper clip and the axle, causing the axle to slide out a bit. I ...



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