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16

If the helmet were jammed head-down, you can use a needle-nose pliers to grasp the edge of the tube in the inside of the racing helmet, as shown, and then pull them apart. You may need to twist them apart as you pull. In your case, since the helmet is jammed head-up, you need a way to push it out from the bottom. I suggest drilling a small hole through ...


14

There's a brick-built spiral staircase in the Pet Shop: That's definitely the most common way to do it. You just build up around a central point. This can be expanded to use longer or wider steps: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/267772 You can also use 2x2 turntables if you need more strength and/or larger stairs: http://www.popscreen.com/v/6UIWz/...


12

Your second guess was correct. It's not just a wrench. It's listed as a Screwdriver/spanner on Lego.com: This part was also included in several sets in the Games line as a human tool to remove tiles from the dice. It's unclear (at least to me) whether this part was intended to be used for tile removal when it was introduced in 1979. Here's an example from ...


11

My son had the exact same problem with this set at Christmas. In step 1, you put the red joiner on the axle. In step 2, there is a smaller axle that gets put in the other end. The only clue is that each step shows what parts are needed, so you can see that there is a little axle there that needs to be incorporated.


11

When your function (such as an extending crane boom) gets to one limit or the other, this clutch gear ratchets instead of binding up the motor and all the gears in between. ETA: Forgot the second question. It has appeared in many sets, most recently the Fairground Mixer.


8

The green parts are great to make a green smooth field, which is kinda obvious. Landscaping is one usage, and if you find it too uniform, don't forget you can cover some areas with additionnal hills or whatever. The Technic hole in there can come handy as you can easily attach something in it. Since it'll rotate freely, your added decoration can even be ...


8

Technic Turntable Large Type 1 Base (2856). It's a Turntable Large Type 1 Top (2855) which is part of Technic Turntable Large Type 1, Complete Assembly (2856c01).


8

Is it possible that you are thinking of this goblet (2343)? This part was fairly common, and it was introduced around 1985, so it was probably in your collection. 1x1 round plates attach securely to the top as shown in this lamp from the Pet Shop:


7

One possible solution might be to use one of the new 1x1 round plates with open studs and a Bar with Clip


5

In the case of 87609, the piece was first used in 2010 as part of the grill/bumper assembly for vehicles that were the standard 6 studs wide. Its length would appear to be a result of its original purpose. Its width also allows for attaching two rows of detail: 99206 showed up first in 2012. Its design allows for a more compact construction in ...


5

Using a cut-pipe into a clip-with-tube will let you build a secure and precise angle. If you have a solid brick behind the headlight bricks you can fix the angle by cutting the pipe at the right length.


5

Just today I tried to use it quite successfully as an alternative to suspension springs. Right now I don't have it assembled so I can't post a screenshot, but the idea is to wind up the pullback motor then attach it to your construction with a cross axis from one side and beams from another and limit its moving with some details. If you are interested in how ...


5

Yoshihito Isogawa made clock mechanisms from it (well... tic-tac generators) http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/modelgallery_model/b077.html and http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/modelgallery_model/b078.html. Majorna created a "programmable" pull back racer http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69748&#entry1744425 ...and ...


4

buy a jolly rancher at your local gas station. screw in a long thin screw to a small portion of the jolly rancher, small enough to fit in the garbage can without touching any of the sides. wet the end of the jolly rancher and set it on the plastic helmet in the garbage can. wait a day for it to dry, then pull the helmet out, and soak it in water to ...


4

Short of damaging the parts (which oddTodd nicely documented, I'd tend to try to see if the part can't be removed by suction; although I'm not sure how you could generate enough. Trying to inject a fluid underneath (with sufficient pressure) might do the trick too; that's what doctors do when dealing with clogged ears (usually with a sort of big syringe). ...


4

I'm a noob and can only post two links, but check this out. And this modern classic uses a Duplo piece as a major element.


4

The part you are looking for is 4532a - Container, Cupboard 2 x 3 x 2 - Solid Studs. There is also a 4532 version with hollow studs.


3

The minifigure stands make great commodes if you ever build a scene with a restroom.


3

Bricklinks information about Sports Minifig Stand, has information on where it's used in some sets that are not sports-related. For example: Viking Ship Troll Assault Wagon Troll Warship I don't own any of these sets, so I don't know exactly how this piece is used in there - maybe someone else can give information about that. The Sports Field Section 8 ...


3

Build a catapult with it. The catapult arm would be attached to the motor. Pulling the arm down will wind the motor


3

Once I built a hand-powered semi-automated screwdriver toy for kids. They needed to "charge it" first by rotating a gear and then push a button to release power. Then they could apply it to a crane or other models.


3

It's not deep enough, but depending on what the model is for it might be sufficient: a 2x1 brick with no center pin is almost exactly the right width/height for a USB plug. These are easy to find in transparent colours but solid colours exist as well.


3

At a larger scale, a similar hole that includes an indent that can accept circular connectors, preferably 3-brick long for anchoring, for a true connection. But at that size, it would be roughly 3.2 times the size of a typical laptop. For a tiny model, just do a 2 x 1/3 x 1 brick hole, into which a no-studs plate can be slipped. If you are going for an ...


3

My guess would be that they wanted to include one in more sets; so they made a smaller (cheaper) version and took the opportunity to add functionalities, such as the technic axle remover or the flat end for removing tiles easily. If I'm not mistaken, this version works on jumper plates too; which wasn't the case with the old one.


2

I still have cups and 1x1 round bricks from the late 70's and I can ensure you these were never brickable like you suggest. In the 80's, another popular build from Lego was composed of a transparent cup on top of a transparent minight head. Here is a colored example of that build.


2

A conditional can perhaps be represented by a door that can be blocked from the other side, or maybe two doors, of which only one is blocked via a sliding brick. As for loops, I would represent them as conditionals with counters, by blocking a door with a set number of bricks and removing one brick per iteration. If you'd rather count upwards, then a fixed ...


2

Since you do not give a desired size of the palm, I'd like to propose the following solution, consisting of 1x 6222 - Brick, Round 4 x 4 with 4 Side Pin Holes and Center Axle Hole and 4x 6628 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and Towball, arranged like so: You might need to work on the size of the fingers to make this work with "grip" - but ...


1

As Caleb already explored the 'rebuild it in bricks' option, let me add a few other options. There are a few LEGO products that have a Female USB slot built in. You could look at integrating these into your build. Most of them have an awkward shape though. E.g. LEGO Mindstorms EV3 brick: LEGO Mindstorms NXT brick: LEGO Digital Camera: If you ...


1

Just a suggestion (although it may not have the desired result of being able to stack more on top) but I believe you could flip the 1x1 round brick upside down and put the top into the cup hole. If I had the pieces readily available I'd try it.


1

You can also use heat to un-jam parts that have been tightly stuck with an air pocket between them, which sounds like it describes this situation. Running the parts under warm/hot tap water will cause the air to expand, pushing the pieces apart.



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