Hot answers tagged repair
The material deformation you are seeing is called ‘plasticity’. It happens when a material under stress is deformed and doesn’t return to its original shape (this would be called elasticity). In many cases (and it is the case with LEGO ABS plastic), this deformation weakens the material (as mentioned by Kramii). To fix this part you have to deform it ...
In the old days, minifigs had a dab of paint on the neck. I dont know if it was for this purpose but it would wear off over time. You can paint some nail polish or acrylic on the neck to strengthen that connection. Thin acrylic (get water based) before applying.
There's a YouTube video which explains how you can replace the battery in that light brick. You can also find the owner's explanation on the Eurobricks forums. Quoting from that site: What you'll need: ExoForce Light brick (obviously) A small screwdriver (or other item with a long, thin shaft) (my s'driver was 2mm (0.07 inches) thick) A ...
One of these? I regularly crushed these as a child. You could try inserting something small into the hole and gently easing it open. I've had modest success with a small screwdriver. Unfortunately, the gear will be weakened following a flattening. If it is badly squashed it is very likely break - either as you try to repair it or in use. Your best bet, ...
It's difficult to tell exactly what part this fragment came from, but it looks like it is part of a broken Technic gear or pulley. It looks like it probably came from 3736: Your fragment looks like it was probably once one half of the center axle hole of that part. In terms of repair, I suppose you could try to glue this back together, but given that it ...
one thing that worked for me is to use a very small needle-nose plier or a tweezer to hold the torso from inside while pushing the crack apart (very carefully). now you can use a toothpick or a needle get a bit of superglue in the crack to fix it. note that this just works for bigger cracks like the ones going up to the armpits.
Here are the two easiest options: 1: Repair it. If you have a soldering kit, then get it out, and follow the instructions in this video. It worked for me the first try. 2: Replace it. Contact LEGO, and tell them of your problem. I've hear many success stories from people who did this, and LEGO replacing it for free. For one person, it took a week to ...
Taken from the additional notes of this bricks Bricklink catalogue entry. This item takes one CR927 3V Lithium battery. A very tiny flat screwdriver is needed to push the little clips to open up the assembly. I occasionally use the minifig-scale Axe, Crowbar or Screwdriver to pry plates, tiles and other bricks. If you don't have a ...
Lego is very good about replacing broken parts - for free even. Visit the web-site and look on the bottom of the page under Customer Service for a "broken or missing parts" link (I can't check at current locale).
To work properly, the Forward 5 block on the NXT as well as the Move block of NXT-G require that TWO motors be connected on ports B and C. That's probably the problem you see... To test a single motor, there is the motor block.
I have had some success straightening bent train level crossing gate barriers by first immersing the pieces in a bowl of hot water*, for around 5 minutes to soften the plastic and then immediately trapping them between two hardback books and applying weights until they have cooled. So by using Joubarc's method to hold the axles straight combined with a ...
I'd suggest storing them straightened up for a while, if possible in 32 adjoining 1x2 bricks with cross hole, and add a few layers of bricks to hold them in place. At least it's a pure LEGO solution, but I'm not sure how efficient.
If you are using NXT-G, the software that comes with the NXT set, then here is what you do: Get into NXT-G, start a new program. Select the tools option, and from the drop-down menu, select "Update NXT Firmware..." Plug your USB cable (one comes with the set) into your NXT. Don't try using bluetooth, as it won't work. Click the download button on the ...
Brasso (yes, the metal polish) works better than toothpaste in this case. It is a bit more grainy so works faster but doesn't damage the parts. It does take some work though that may or may not make sense depending on the rarity of the elements. And yes, with either toothpaste or Brasso, you actually have to vigorously rub the surface to buff it up. It ...
The parts become leaky due to the seals inside the pistons deteriorating. Typically, the seal is made with an "o-ring" - a circular rubber band (cross section as well as the shape) - if this is the case in the LEGO pistons, and then it's possible the o-rings are made with similar rubber to the LEGO rubber bands, and then they will deteriorate over time in ...
There is at least one possible way to hide the damage to a cracked torso and brace it at the same time. Wrapping the outside of a cracked minifig torso with a decal and/or a piece of transparent tape can increase the snugness of the pelvis/torso fit as well as reduce the rate of future cracking. There is a downside. If you do this without taking due care, ...
You may want to contact the LEGO customer service which will usually provide a replacement motor free of charge.
It seems encased. You can try to open it up, expect a short happened internally. Your best bet is to probably buy a new one. at 10$, it isn't so bad don`t you think?
I would try pulling off the legs and dropping a tiny, tiny amount of plastic glue on the hinge, smooth it out and let it dry, then put the leg back on. It should provide enough friction to the leg again so they aren't so loose.
The easiest solution, provided that motor is still in production, is to contact the LEGO customer service (this online form is usually the easiest way, but you can also call them), they'll usually provide a replacement without problem.
Maybe the plastic is worn off just enough that the switch is not pushing the pins completely anymore. Debug step 1: When the train pins are in the switch zone there shouldn't be a lot of space between the point of the pins and the face of the switch. If it looks too loose that could be the problem. A way to test this would be to put some clear scotch ...
Oh, those look sad! Stickers with white designs on them are notorious for peeling/cracking. I have found that the best way to protect stickers like these is to apply a thin layer of clearcoat to them while they are still new. Wait until the clearcoat dries, then apply the sticker to the LEGO set. You can use pretty much any acrylic clearcoat, medium or ...
I had this trouble when I was a nipper. My dad owned a model shop so I used the same glue that you use on Airfix type kits ("Polystyrene cement") - you can get this from model shops. Use a cocktail stick to smear a bit inside the figure, above where the top nobules of the legs will go so it won't interfere. Don't use too much because it kind of melts the ...
You won't be able to make it fit perfectly again. If plastic is stretched over a certain point it is irreversibly damaged. But you can try to heat it a little to shrink the wheel overall. But it's not guaranteed to work. If you use a lighter you can affect a smaller area but be sure not to burn your part.
Don't tell anyone, but I've used brushable superglue to put a thin layer on the back of the neck. Then I let it fully dry, and it grips the head fine. Eventually it will wear off. It's cheaper than nail polish and very hard to see.
I don't think it's really possible to salvage it, as others said, you'll only weaken it more. Even if you can place it on an axle, there's a good chance it will break under stress. But replacement should be very easy to find, and don't forget you could also contact the LEGO customer service for that. It sounds a bit overkill, but they will usually happily ...
What I have found that works, most of the time, is DURO super glue. Extreme safety must be exercised as it is super glue and can cause skin to bond and burn as well as prove poisonous via inhalation. I would recommend using wet(with water) latex cleaning gloves as the water seems to prevent the gloves from sticking to themselves or each other to handle the ...
I agree with HaydenStudios, it is impossible to disassemble completely NXT motor without breaking the orange axle hub. You can nonetheless half-open it enough to see what's happening inside (you need a Torx screwdriver - T10 size if I remember well - to open it. See photos here http://philohome.com/nxtmotor/nxtmotor.htm. Anyway, first try to see what LEGO ...
This means your NXT is spoiled and needs reseting. This is usally caused by unplugging before the program downloaded. To reset 1) Completely disconnect your NXT from the computer (no USB connection). 2) Remove all external BlueTooth dongles from your computer, and turn BlueTooth off on the computer (just to be sure). 3) Reboot the computer (this is to ...
I used option 2 and I couldn't fit the needle. So if you can't get a bottle of gorilla glue and stick the tooth pick. First take out the legs and the where the crack is. Then you stick the toothpick into the gorilla glue and apply on the inside crack and outside crack. Make sure you get the cracks bottom where it transitions from inside to outside
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