How can I build a LEGO marble pump?

Question

All right, here's a tough one for ya'll.

How can I built a marble pump out of LEGO bricks? What would the mechanism which pushes the marbles up need to look like?

Here's an example in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBb-qyXFb5E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Unfortunately, one cannot see the mechanism which pushes the marbles upward very well. I couldn't determine what pieces he was using - I think there was a slope, but I'm not sure as to how it moves the marbles up the pipe.

Answer 1

A pump is one of the most classic GBC (Great Ball Contraption) modules but is indeed difficult to get right.

One of the best illustrations I know is on this site:

Unfortunately, most of the site is in German, but the pictures are usually illustrative enough and I think it's a good source of information for ball machines in general, not only LEGO ones. The best is of course to get in touch with one GBC builder at events and ask for information. EDIT:

Here is a picture based on the model at aforementioned site:

Here is a video showing the mechanism in action.

Answer 2

Marbles weigh more than LEGO balls but there is a thriving community of avid "Great Ball Contraption (GBC)" builders... these move soccer balls or basketballs from their (standardized) input to their (standardized) output to the next module.

They use various techniques including stairstep, conveyor, helix, scoops, and every other motion technique imaginable.

I think looking through their designs will give you lots of ideas

This great site by Phillipe Hurbain ("Philo") should get you started, In particular, look at the Ball Pump and Jigsaw module, which have instructions included

Answer 3

I found this question and used Joubarc's and Peter's answer to guide my pump build:

The video of it's operation is here. As per Joubarc, it was very tricky to get right. Here are some subtle things I learnt/did during the build:

• The blue down wedges in the ball feed are not symmetric horizontally. Putting them on alternate layers helps stop the 14mm beads getting jammed.
• The ball feed needs to be narrow at the bottom (beams with a 2 stud gap, no wedges) to avoid ball jams and ensure the balls drop down with gravity into the intake.
• Needed a gradual ramp in the slider/feed section (yellow) to prevent ball jams and ensure the balls would drop into the intake
• Older bricks that have been nicked from drops, rough play tend to jam the slide mechanism as they brush past each other. Use newer/non nicked bricks.
• Use longer horizontal beams in the slide mechanism and adjacent walls. Every vertical vertice is an opportunity for the slider to jam. Long horizontals reduce this.
• Use window pieces in the slider to reduce slide contact and friction (see white slider section)
• Needed a long slide (white section) to increase clutch power holding it on to the bottom plate. With a smaller slide section it didn't take long for it to pop off due to push/pull action from the piston.
• a 2x1 beam with two holes was used to mount the piston. This aligned the piston just right to not jam during rotation. A single hole 2x1 beam didn't work for me.
• Needed to bias the balls at the top of the chimney to pop them out into the race section. Did this with the mini cheese wedges mounted vertically.