I saw this technique in LEGO's Disney Castle for offsetting parts of a column by half of a stud. You can see the column on the left in this picture is shifting half a stud above a 3x3 plate:
Of course you can do it too! Here is the process:
Take your 3x3 base plate and stick 1x1 "dots" between each of the studs. The "dots" are LEGO part 4073 which ...
For centring a minifigure on a 3×3 plate, I would do the following (though it’s not exactly what you asked for):
Arrange 2×1 plates with centre studs as follows:
Add 1×1 panels for optical harmony:
Put a 3×2 plate on top:
Place your minifigure in the middle:
I tried this out recently with the new road plates. Because the new system is composed of proper plates with connection points on the underside, this is fairly simple to do. It really comes down to selecting parts that can allow the road to be held in place securely at an appropriate angle.
Here's what I did using plates with clips and handles:
If you were ...
I see that this popped up on HNQ, so I wanted to expand on shoover's excellent answer with a build showing one way that this could be put together for folks that may not be as familiar with LEGO elements as the Bricks community.
As was already pointed out, the key element here is the 2x2 turntable base without a turntable attached:
Here's how you might ...
Swooshable has a great collection of SNOT (studs not on top) and advanced techniques, it is probably the closest thing you will get to an online catalogue.
They seem to have updated their SNOT section with some really pretty renderings, piece information, videos and step by step instructions. Most of the articles for advanced techniques lead to external ...
The wall behind the shelving unit is not a standard wall built with regular LEGO bricks, but a panel, which is hollow on one side.
The parts that are sticking out at the back of the bookshelf are accommodated by the hollow of the panel.
My guess is that you attached the panel backwards with the flat side facing in, instead of out. Look at Page 37/Step 48 ...
It's kinda chunky, but the best I can come up with is 42446 + 2555:
It would leave a half-plate gap on one side if they only have 1 holster though, but at-least you keep the regular minifig legs.
NOTE: This probably wouldn't be considered a "legal" connection, due to the semi-octagonal shape of the leg connectors. It's definitely possible to put ...
You might be interested in the excellent, hilarious and comprehensive Communist LEGO report. It tells you all you can expect, from the good brands to the bad brands. At a minimum, it'll get you rolling of your chair with laughter.
A summary taken from the document:
Brand List 2015
LEGO is a global brand and has been the subject of many copies over the years....
If stability is not an issue, consider the following:
Put a 4×4 dish on your 3×3 plate (yes, this fits):
Put your 2×2 plate in the middle (in any orientation you like):
If you want to centre your minifigure, add a layer of 2×1 plates with centre studs:
… and place your minifigure on top:
(This also works with a 1×1 plate instead of the dish, but it ...
Another soloution if rotational stability is not too much of a concern and you don't like having studs on show.
Put a 1x1 plate in the middle of the 3x3 plate and surround it with 1x1 or 1x2 flat tiles so you have a 3x3 surface with a single stud popping up in the middle.
You can now stack a 2x2 plate on top held in place by the single stud.
The easiest way to do this would be to use a motor with a high speed (or gear up a lower speed motor) and then attach one of the larger propeller elements to it. You can probably build a custom prop, but it might be challenging to build something with the proper blade angle while keeping it light and strong enough to not break apart when rotating quickly.
Before I attempt to come up with an answer, let me share how I think through problems like this, as it might make it easier for others to solve problems like this in the future.
We can see that the gap itself is 30 LDU, as modules are 20 LDU, so 1.5 modules is 30 LDU. Some quick rules of thumb:
Multiples of 20 LDU can be made with regular bricks ...
Hinges can work, I have used this technique before, if you sandwich the hinges between two plates you get 45 degree 'bricks' that are quite solid.
In most cases, tiles and plates in the right place will keep sufficient contact with the base plate to have a stable model.
I have seen a number of very creative builds with the orange brick separator. Here are some examples:
Spaceship by F@bz: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabz71/12434428513/
Mech by Lewis Meeny: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tr0jinh0rse/11318913594/
Deep Sea Explorer by Keith Reed: http://www.flickr.com/photos/keithreed/12943153094/
And my favorite is this ...
There seems to be basically two choices. You can either build a larger version than the traditional cube, or you can build something that doesn't stay together very well.
There's a nice example of a small cube on Sebastians Sand's Brickshelf:
While this looks like it would work, I can't imagine that it holds together through many rotations.
If you are ...
45° angles are tricky because of the dimensions of 45-45-90 triangles:
The fact that the hypotenuse needs to be a multiple of radical two makes it difficult to build out of LEGO plates which are generally limited to integers or halves. The best you can do in a reasonably small amount of space is a 5 x 5 x 7.07 triangle, but that doesn't come close enough to ...
To create a smooth surface with cheese slopes they must be offset by one-half plate in height. There are several techniques to do this. Here is one using the common "headlight" brick. It has the advantage of being extendable to nearly any length.
The short answer is because the combined height of the two mini inverted brackets is greater than the interior space of a tile (or brick for that matter.) But you knew this already.
I realize it isn't considered standard by the rest of the world, but because the only quality calipers I had access to tonight are customary, all these values will be in inches.
If it's your own creation, you should be able to adapt your model to fit the rack you have. One tricky problem I can see is if your construction is built as most studless models are nowadays and features uneven dimensions - which means a 7 rack is indeed easier than a 8.
You can of course build something around the old 1x4 rack place but it might get ...
I attempt to create a searchable index of SNOT techniques, as this is called. Of those, the strongest 180 degree stud reversal are probably one of these:
If you want to connect the two curves together bottom to bottom, you should be able to do it with an axle, sort of like these two techniques:
If that doesn't work I once had luck playing around with a ...
I have 2 Banbao set from before the lawsuit with Lego (minifig style minifigs) and they are more and less compatible with lego, the pitch between the studs is the same. But there is some remark I noticed within comparing both brands for a few minutes.
Studs are higher, a Lego plate on a Banbao brick will leave a small gap between both bricks
Plates are ...
The Atlantis Submarine Voyage ride at LEGOLAND Windsor has almost 100 models (albeit glued together) submerged in a 1,000,000 litre tank with 'upto 50 species of rare sharks, rays and tropical fish'. If LEGO bricks can withstand those conditions, I think you'll be fine.
Most of these models are quite large (and heavy), so you may need to weigh down or ...
The answer depends on your definition of "legal". In the strictest sense, it means "can be used in official LEGO sets", and in this case, this is definitely not legal, as the axle is not designed to bend that way, unlike the many various hinge and joint pieces.
On the other hand, "legal" might mean "does not cause damage to the pieces", and in this sense it ...
Why not use just two jumper plates (3794), one on the top and one on the bottom? No more additional are pieces required.
You can also replace the stack of 1x1 round bricks with a single Support 1 x 1 x 6 Solid Pillar (43888) piece. The piece is used in conjunction with a large swinging vault door in the Bank & Money Transfer (3661) set. The brick is ...
From this picture and this one, you can see that the framing of the windows is formed by Turntable 2 x 2 Plate, Base in black.
For the colored areas (the "stained glass"), you have a couple of options:
You could use different "Trans-X" colored Plate, Round 1 x 1 inserted into the back, but you'll need some trans-clear plates to back them up so the ...