A 1x1x5 brick has enough leverage to remove most jumper plates. Apply pressure to the top of the brick and pull or push away from the length of the jumper plate.
Even a 1x1 brick works in certain cramped places, although It doesn't provide as much leverage.
I reproduced the problem and got the axle out using a sculpting tool (similar to an awl). It's a sharp point made of hard metal. (Soft metal will actually bend, believe me, I tried three tools.)
I inserted the point in the space left by the axle groove and pried the axle out. The point of the tool was against the axle while the body of the tool was pushing ...
Or you could use, guess what, a new brick separator:
I just noticed this one appearing on BrickLink and have no idea in what set it will come out, or if it will be sold separately, or if it will work with jumpers.
You can use some sugar liquid to use as temporary glue to make the head stuck to the torso. Then wait till the sugar is sticky and then try to remove the helmet. Once the helmet is loose you can put the head and torso in warm water to loosen the sugar glue and take it off. Then wash thoroughly to remove remaining sugar.
If the helmet were jammed head-down, you can use a needle-nose pliers to grasp the edge of the tube in the inside of the racing helmet, as shown, and then pull them apart. You may need to twist them apart as you pull.
In your case, since the helmet is jammed head-up, you need a way to push it out from the bottom. I suggest drilling a small hole through the ...
the best way i found out till now is to get them of as good as possible with your nails or a plastic-knife (i wouldn't recommend to use metal knifes or razorblades - if you do, be careful to avoid scratching the bricks surface) and then remove the remaining glue with:
pure alcohol or
cheap hairspay (spray 2-3 seconds from very close distance ...
I usually attach it to a Technic beam, then put something to fill the hole so it can't squeeze together and come out, to give a handle.
The flexible rods tend to be a nice options for filling the hole, the older ones may be a bit better, but I've had success with other pieces that fit minifig hands.
Once you have the blue pin attached to the beam instead ...
I'll try to show how I'd do this using a 2x12 plate (or something similar). Imagine you're looking at it from the side:
_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_n_ --> Pull | narrow, long plate
_n_ | jumper plate
_n_n_n_n_n_n_ | baseplate
n = stud
Just attach a plate or brick to the top of ...
I performed my own experiments to determine which methods work by randomly applying three stickers (which are similar to the stickers that come in LEGO sets) onto a simple brick wall.
Using my finger nails to peel the stickers worked well. This is how I've always removed stickers and in my experience, I haven't had any problems doing so.
Heating the brick ...
Push the Technic pin in a beam hole, then insert a rod (antenna or minifig tool handle) into the hole in the pin from the other side. The rod will prevent the "lips" of the pin from closing in, therefore preventing the pin from leaving the beam. Then you can pull on anything attached to the other end of the pin.
This example below shows the removal of a pin ...
A trick that's worked for me in the past, is to use a 1x1 cone with a Technic axle in it (it needs to be the cone without the top groove, unlike the example below) - this will allow you to force the tapered end of the cone into the hole on the bottom of the head, and by fastening a Technic gearwheel, brick or larger cylinder to the Technic axle, you'll be ...
Best to remove as much as you can by mechanical means (plastic spatula/fingernail, nothing harder unless you like scratching your bricks) then use some 'Sticky Stuff Remover' to get the sticky residue off.
This stuff works on just about anything without leaving a mark, Lego is made from ABS and will not be affected by it.
Well, I opened it up without much success, and took some pictures of the process:
At first I tried pushing/prying the light grey tabs away from the dark gray "bottom", but those weren't budging
So plan B: wedge it apart:
It was opening, but I was also distorting the plastic in the process - perhaps if I had a hot air station or something, I could have of ...
Often in these cases, I have been able to flex the plate the piece is on a little. This allows you to get a fingernail or small tool under the lip of the thing in the middle of the larger plate. If you don't flex too much, you won't do any permanent damage to it.
I figured out a solution while waiting for answers. The tool I used for it was a universal T20 bit which most people have or can easily get access to. I took some documenting pictures of it which I would like to share here.
Try using the orange brick separator upside down. This is a trick I learned from someone who professionally works with LEGO. The lower angle makes it easier to go under the lip of the tiles and it is much less damaging on the brick separator, as you are more pushing and sliding rather than digging and prying.
To be clear, instead of holding the brick ...
Here's a YT vid on the disassembly, but the still picture shots with no commentary may not be what you need for a good walk-thru.
I don't have a Hub, but wish we all had a pic to make sure we're talking about the same piece.
Regardless, I'm gonna take a crazy shot at it. Let's Go!
We have two gray rectangles:
Big Gray Rectangle on the Left.
Small Gray ...
Here are some disassembly pictures and tips.
Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover.
T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws. Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden ...
As I've said before in another answer, I find the #92585 Crowbar is the most versatile and is especially good at removing rubber bands from the #3736 (Technic, Steering Pulley Large) and the #4185 (Technic, Wedge Belt Wheel) elements.
Don't use any sharp/metallic objects like a screwdriver or a pen knife as you may scratch the brick or sever the rubber band....
My son did some extensive research on this subject, which yielded this beauty:
That’s a light bulb cover stuck into a Duplo stud. While it may look harmless, I found it impossible to get sufficient hold of the lightbulb before levering it out with a very thin screwdriver.
Ah, yes. I have had this problem a few times. Here's what I do:
The first thing you're going to want is leverage. Connect one 1x6 plate to the underside of the Modified 1x1, one on top of the previous plate (but adjacent to the Modified 1x1), and one on top of both pieces.
Next, slide propeller piece 32125 over the tip of the antenna.
Hold the antenna ...
A good part of the LEGO experience is building the set. There is little joy in buying a LEGO set that was already built by someone else. So you are right, that a disassembled set is usually viewed as more valuable. However, consider the following points.
When people purchase a LEGO set, either new or used, they expect the parts to be sorted in some way into ...
In most cases it's best to to pry a brick by it's length (the bricks longest side). The base of the hinge brick can be removed with a crowbar. The crowbar brick can be found in many sets (particularly CITY Police sets) but I consider it to be the most versatile.
There are many other minifig utensils that can be helpful in removing different types of ...
I was able to successfully get that size band off of that pulley using this brick separator:
I slid the sharp end in between the band and the pulley then worked it under the band and was able to pull the band off without damaging either part. If you don't have a brick separator handy, you can probably use a pointy minifig utensil such as a sword instead. I ...
Your problem is that the clutch (what holds bricks together) between the helmet and the head is too high, and in any case higher than the clutch between head and torso.
This means the solution is to increase the clutch between the head and another part you'll use to remove it. I would first recommend trying other torsos, maybe one has enough clutch to ...