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10

If you're interested in comparing motors regarding to torque and what they can deliver, I would recommend reading Philo's excellent motor comparison page which has a lot of detailed information, very much useful for tinkerers. Of course not all of these motors are readily available nowadays and depending on your project some may be less suitable; but there'...


9

The present line of battery boxes all provide 800mA of current and have overload protection to ensure that this level is not exceeded. Here's what the LEGO website has to say about powering motors: As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power ...


8

I'm assuming that you meant "the motor is not powerful enough". Surely you can use a gearing ratio & leverage to assist? Essentially you want the motor to turn many times for each small amount of distance traveled by the lifting arm. This means a small gear on the motor and a large gear driving the lifting. You may need to connect several gears together ...


8

In short, yes it's perfectly safe to run your old 9v motors from your Power Functions battery box. This excellent online reference has a lot of information on various LEGO motors. Both the old 9v train motor and the Power Functions train motor are listed. The information on the site shows that the characteristics of the two motors are very similar with the ...


7

The length of the wire is another thing to be aware of. The wire attached to the motor in 8293 is only slightly more than 20 centimeters (might be a few centimeters more, I don't remember), you can double that by putting in the switch which has about the same length of wire, but it's still not much. I don't know how long the wire in 8700 was, but it looks ...


7

By adding two motors together with gears, you have doubled the torque the motors provide. Power = torque x speed, so if you don't want the doubled power from the motors to go to the torque component but to the speed component instead, I think you should use a differential and put the motors on both outputs of the differential, and use the input to feed your ...


7

It's the main module from Record and Play (set 4095): This part was only included in this set released in 2003. The part contains several motors and some electronics that allow you to record motor movements and then play them back. Pressing the red button would let you record movements for a maximun of 20 seconds by adjusting the motors and the green ...


6

Undo the 2 screws at the top and then take of the top cover. You can now take the actual motor out of the casing. It just sits loose in there. Then you can undo the 2 screws in the bottom to free the metal block with the plastic gears. It is most likely those gears that cause the squealing because of dust/dirt that got into them. I would recommend to ...


6

A sensor port can't directly output to a motor. The sensor drivers can't provide enough power to supply a motor. You have a couple options: Daisy-chain two EV3s together. The first can control the sensors and motors of the second. Use an electronic motor multiplexer. EDIT: It should be noted that this requires an external power supply, which will increase ...


6

The best way would definitely be to appeal to his already existing preferences and show him how LEGO Technic can integrate into that or even enhance that. Does he like cars? Let's build a simple car with him, later add a steering system, and still later a motor for driving. Does he like robots? Offer to build a robot, with gears to move the arms, legs, ...


6

Instead of providing a pile of assorted Technic bricks and motors, I would (and already did) rather start with medium-sized sets. This guarantees success and shows how everything fits together nicely. I am doing this with regular LEGO sets and my children are already demanding larger and larger sets. MOCs (i.e. "My Own Creations") can follow later.


6

The motor you have linked is indeed quite old and as far as I know, not compatible with anything newer. Seeing that it works with simple DC current, it wouldn't be hard to construct a converter cable, but it is still some work (especially reducing the voltage from 9V to the 4.5V required by this motor). The next generation (9V system: large motor, ...


5

Well the power cable is the main difference, as one motor was made for the short-lived 9V RC system while the other is the current PF one. However, that doesn't mean the internals are the same. From Philo 's motor comparison page, you'll see that the PF motor is better, and that fortunately the performances are much improved [over the RC one], with an ...


5

Pulleys and gears With a range of pulleys and gears you can build something capable of lifting as much as 100 kilos with LEGO parts, albeit at the risk of putting enormous amounts of stress on the bricks! Using a small gear to power a larger gear (gearing down), you can greatly improve the torque (rotational force) at the cost of reduced speed. Gear ...


5

Yes, both items contain the same M-Motor part.


5

This is actually a surprisingly difficult task. If you search for similar questions over on the Robotics stack exchange, you will find very smart people who can't even get it right with thousand-dollar localization solutions and graduate-level control theory. If you have a Gyro sensor like Michael suggested, you're on the right track. You can probably get ...


5

According to bricklink, 88003 is the set containing exactly one part, namely the 99499 motor. You can buy the motor as a set in LEGO shops or online, it's packaged in a plastic bag, which probably accounts for the 3 gram weight difference between the items. To my knowledge there are no different versions of the Power Functions L motor. Here is the list of ...


5

I'm just going down this route with my 7 year old. The old style primary colour gears (G9 / G15 / G21) have proved to be better for little fingers and more engaging than the "standard" technic gears, if you can get hold of them in sufficient quantity. Of course, some of the model instructions we've followed have required a little adapting, but that's all ...


5

Given your background and overall goals (using 3rd parties motors currently and hoping to power creations using Arduino or Raspberry Pi), I wouldn't go with the starter kit. For my money, I'd buy an M-motor or two and see if they meet your needs. These are currently $7.49 individually on LEGO.com: https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/lego-power-functions-m-...


4

Multiply the output of the proximity sensor by -1.


4

You don't need to open the motor to get the lubricant in. Electric motor oil is thin enough to work in if you hold the motor with the shaft uppermost and slowly rotate the shaft by hand while squirting a small amount down the shaft. Don't use a lot - try a small amount, and see how well it works. Add more if needed. (this one I found on Amazon)


4

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this? You would apply the (-) side of your power source to GND and the (+) side of your power source to +9v. Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function? Generally, yes. However, lower voltage or suddenly losing power will not harm the part. Can I rely on the IR ...


4

Generally, speculative questions are considered off-topic, but in this case very little speculation is required to answer the question. The clear answer is that S or XS PF motors will never be released. The entire PF system is on its way out and is being replaced by the newer Powered Up system. For this reason, I would expect production on existing PF ...


4

M Motor (Powered Up/WeDo 2.0) The M motor has a 2.2kΩ resistor between pins 5 and 6. Pin 6 is connected directly to pin 3. LED Lights I don't own any lights yet, but according to this post, they also use a 2.2kΩ resistor, but in this case it is between pins 5 and 3. This pulls ID 1 to ground. Here's the full circuit diagram: Train motor The measured ...


4

Here's an idea for a stop switch using a remote control and one's wrist. Place your wrist on the switch to start the motor. With your hands free you're still able to carefully adjust your running gears. But what if something (or someone...) gets stuck? Just lift your wrist and the motor will stop immediately. No need to quickly flick that switch on the ...


3

To expand on Michael's link-only answer: Older train motors were powered by the track and the speed of the train is controlled by a track-side switch. Newer PF trains are powered by the battery box on the train and controlled by the remote which sends IR signals to the IR receiver. This means your train needs room for the wire from the motor to the IR ...


3

As far as we know, no other motor sizes were planned. It's possible they were named this way to allow for future expansions, like when the L motor was added. It's worth noting that it's unlikely we will see any new motors come out for the current Power Function system, as Power Functions 2.0 was just recently announced at the Nuremberg Toy Fair and features ...


3

Only in 2012 the L-motor was released. The M and XL motors where released in 2007. That is a gap of 5 years where people were even more confused about the size options... Anyway, no smaller motor with power functions However if you are willing to go with the 9V system (possibly with conversion cables), there's the mini and micro motor, standard motor is ...


3

The Lipo, thermal protections kicks in when consuming about 1A, while the buggy motor will consume 1.3 A when loaded but not stalled. So for two buggy motors, best would be 3 lipo's in parallel but perhaps you can get away with 2. The V1 receiver, only 850 mA before the protection kicks in, so not enough to power 1 buggy motor, let alone 2. The V2 receiver, ...


3

Your code instructs the motor to continuously turn in one direction, and because you chose a motor block in the “on” mode, it will continue to turn even during the loop condition check. The loop condition says the loop will continue as long as the button is released (AFAIK, I don’t have an EV3 close by currently to validate this), which means that it does ...


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