I use a Mindstorms NXT brick and an Android smartphone for my remote controlled tank. The downside is that the NXT motors are slower than the regular Power Functions motors, and connecting PF motors to the NXT brick requires additional components.
Personally, I am satisfied with NXT motors and don't bother kludging PF motors. (Yet.)
Here is a modular truck ...
Unless you do extreme things it should be fine. All the gears insides the Train motors, Power Function motors and the NXT motors are made of Nylon while the pinion attached to
the motor is made of metal.
Since Nylon is much stronger than ABS plastic (normal LEGO plastic), the ABS would twist, tear or brake before damaging the nylon gears.
With some Power Functions elements and a few extra pieces, it's pretty easy to turn the Rally Car into an RC car.
Here's a quick demo video of my design in action.
And here are the instructions I made for it.
Required extra pieces
First you are going to need some extra pieces:
1x - Servo Motor
1x - IR Receiver
1x - Battery Box
1x - L-...
Personally I would go with Arduino (on the car) and an Android phone as the controller (via bluetooth). There's plenty of reference on the web about mixing the two.
The main problem is interfacing with non Lego parts (motors, PCB, ...). Luckily, you can find Lego adapter parts in many Robot/Electronic sites. For example at Pololu:
YES! Philippe Hurbain (Philo) has put together a great and very detailed write-up on those and many other LEGO 9V electric motors.
You can find it here: LEGO 9V Technic Motors compared characteristics
Your current draw for that specific motor @ 9V is:
No load: 65mA
Loaded (3.6 N.cm): 310mA
Loaded (6.0 N.cm): 480mA
Stalled (11 N....
This is a big question, but here are some of the basics:
The original 4.5V system worked with 3 x 1.5V C cells. It was produced between 1966 an 1986 and was used to power motors and lights in a wide variety of trains, technic, basic and even DUPLO sets.
Coexisting with this system, a 12V standard for LEGO Trains was introduced in 1969 and produced until ...
You can do most things that you can do with traditional model railroads using LEGO trains. This includes cross track, bridges, switches, and inclines.
As far as I know, this was never released for either RC or PF trains. As you noted, there was a cross track part for the 9V trains. If you aren't aware, 9V, RC, and PF track is ...
If i remember right, the tires of the small LEGO City wheels fit perfectly on a Technic 1/2 bush which then gives you an axle hole, but note that this is very flat on the ground. I don't know if its high enough to add a very small gear and build up the connection to your motor.
Yes, you can use another transformer, even if it's not recommended by LEGO and you do so at your own risk (which should be minimal if you pay attention to what you do).
The plug polarity is + in the center and - on the outside; it should be mentioned on the battery and the real transformer (I wish I could find the one I have to check), and the size is a ...
It's difficult, but not impossible. A rigid axle turning at the centre would be mechanically simpler. As my crude drawing illustrates;
I would place a 24-tooth gear over the 2x4 wheel axle. A 8-tooth gear is optional but will provide finer control over the steering. The two teeth gears can also be replaced with a pulley gear.
This technique however will not ...
There is a pure way of changing the points at a track. It requires as few pieces as you like: a motor and two technic beam/bricks. This video demonstrates the principles of point changing with a NXT motor and will work with PF and RCX.
You can use Mindstorms to program the events that trigger the points to change, it will cost you extra but there are ...
Ever since this question was asked I wanted to build something that would fit that scale. Here's the result:
I know this is not using only LEGO pieces but, I thought that there was no way to make the LEGO motors fit 'inside' a normal looking LEGO City vehicle. So, this is basically a homemade motorized brick made of a 2x2 brick glued to the 2x2 wheels-...
There are a number of pull-back motors for system wheels. Look through the Motor, non-electric section of bricklink. There is even one rechargeable electric motor.
There was also an all-rubber tire with an axle hole in some of the old space sets, though that may have a rounder shape than you're looking for.
It delivers a maximum torque of 90,4 mNm (600 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 220 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 45,4 mNm (450 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 40 mNm (300 mA). Without load its rotation speed is ...
LEGO have produced an IR Speed Remote Control unit as part of their current "Power Functions" range.
Features 4 RC channels, 2 stop button and 2 direction control switches!
Use the jog wheels to control your motor speed!
You will also need the receivers as well.
5300 and 10153 are from the former 9V train system and drew power from the metal tracks. They were controlled using a transformer attached to the tracks.
88002 runs on battery power from an onboard battery box. Trains with this kind of motor can run at a set speed, or can be controlled by adding IR remote controllers.
Regarding compatibility, the 5300 and ...
As mentioned by @guestguy123 and @eficker, it is easy to combine an EV3 cable and a PF cable to make a custom cable that allows the EV3 to control. This can even be done without soldering - I just twist the wires together and tape them with electrical tape. The full schematic is here:
All you need is 2 resistors (1x1kOhm and 1x10kOhm) which are cheap to get ...
According to the product description on the LEGO® webn site, the LEGO® Power Functions Train Motor 88002, can be used to motorise the Western Train Chase.
The train wheels normally fit directly to this motor, so I'm sure that this train can be used on normal LEGO® tracks.
Looking at the instructions for both the Red Cargo Train and the Western Train Chase, ...
Funny that you are asking because I just rebuilt my old 4x4 OffRoader (8466) with my son. it's a 4 wheels drive, V8 with a functional 5 speed gearbox (including reverse).
and in the truck (with the gearbox cover):
Looking at it in action is really good to understand the basics of a car's transmission.
The present line of battery boxes all provide 800mA of current and have overload protection to ensure that this level is not exceeded. Here's what the LEGO website has to say about powering motors:
As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power ...
The two sticks on that remote are pure on/off switches (well, forward/off/backward) and come back in their central position if not maintained pushed, and don't move laterally either.
There are two classic ways to control a car with them:
Use each switch to control a motor and wheel (or set of wheels) - so you have to push both levers to advance, and only ...
In short, yes it's perfectly safe to run your old 9v motors from your Power Functions battery box.
This excellent online reference has a lot of information on various LEGO motors. Both the old 9v train motor and the Power Functions train motor are listed.
The information on the site shows that the characteristics of the two motors are very similar with the ...
The main benefit is consistent performance. The rechargeable battery puts out almost the same voltage until it's almost flat, and whatever current is required with little voltage drop. Disposable batteries have more voltage, but cheap ones can't supply much current. Expensive ones can supply the current, but cost more. You'd be lucky to get 5 sets of those ...
LEGO "Servo Motor" has little to do with a RC servomotor. To drive it, you need to:
Power it at 9V (probably works at 5 volts, but with less torque) through PWR/GND terminals
To move in one direction, send a PWM signal (1200 Hz, 0 to 100% duty cycle) on C1 and keep C2 at GND level. As duty cycle varies, servo motor will move along 7 positions on one side. ...
I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).
I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.
For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily ...
For a comprehensive enumeration and measurements on all motors, refer to Philo's excellent page on this topic: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm
There are some LEGO motors that are missing from this list since they predate the 9V era, like the 4.5V motor, or the 4.5V train motor, but these are probably only of interest if you already own them, ...
Most Power Functions pieces will run in classic 9V mode. The IR receiver can't, but motors and lights can.
A hacky solution:
Many people have done this by cutting up an extension wire, and connecting the two outer cables to their power source of choice.
From: Lego PF Hacking – Wire Hacking
GND – ground wire – Always connected (0V regardless of ...