With some Power Functions elements and a few extra pieces, it's pretty easy to turn the Rally Car into an RC car.
Here's a quick demo video of my design in action.
And here are the instructions I made for it.
Required extra pieces
First you are going to need some extra pieces:
1x - Servo Motor
1x - IR Receiver
1x - Battery Box
1x - L-...
YES! Philippe Hurbain (Philo) has put together a great and very detailed write-up on those and many other LEGO 9V electric motors.
You can find it here: LEGO 9V Technic Motors compared characteristics
Your current draw for that specific motor @ 9V is:
No load: 65mA
Loaded (3.6 N.cm): 310mA
Loaded (6.0 N.cm): 480mA
Stalled (11 N....
You can do most things that you can do with traditional model railroads using LEGO trains. This includes cross track, bridges, switches, and inclines.
As far as I know, this was never released for either RC or PF trains. As you noted, there was a cross track part for the 9V trains. If you aren't aware, 9V, RC, and PF track is ...
It delivers a maximum torque of 90,4 mNm (600 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 220 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 45,4 mNm (450 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 40 mNm (300 mA). Without load its rotation speed is ...
As mentioned by @guestguy123 and @eficker, it is easy to combine an EV3 cable and a PF cable to make a custom cable that allows the EV3 to control. This can even be done without soldering - I just twist the wires together and tape them with electrical tape. The full schematic is here:
All you need is 2 resistors (1x1kOhm and 1x10kOhm) which are cheap to get ...
The present line of battery boxes all provide 800mA of current and have overload protection to ensure that this level is not exceeded. Here's what the LEGO website has to say about powering motors:
As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power ...
Most Power Functions pieces will run in classic 9V mode. The IR receiver can't, but motors and lights can.
A hacky solution:
Many people have done this by cutting up an extension wire, and connecting the two outer cables to their power source of choice.
From: Lego PF Hacking – Wire Hacking
GND – ground wire – Always connected (0V regardless of ...
The main benefit is consistent performance. The rechargeable battery puts out almost the same voltage until it's almost flat, and whatever current is required with little voltage drop. Disposable batteries have more voltage, but cheap ones can't supply much current. Expensive ones can supply the current, but cost more. You'd be lucky to get 5 sets of those ...
LEGO "Servo Motor" has little to do with a RC servomotor. To drive it, you need to:
Power it at 9V (probably works at 5 volts, but with less torque) through PWR/GND terminals
To move in one direction, send a PWM signal (1200 Hz, 0 to 100% duty cycle) on C1 and keep C2 at GND level. As duty cycle varies, servo motor will move along 7 positions on one side. ...
I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).
I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.
For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily ...
For a comprehensive enumeration and measurements on all motors, refer to Philo's excellent page on this topic: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm
There are some LEGO motors that are missing from this list since they predate the 9V era, like the 4.5V motor, or the 4.5V train motor, but these are probably only of interest if you already own them, ...
Well the thing with LEGO, (Technic, Classic, Mindstorms or whichever category you talk about) is that it is customizable. You might not get instructions to combine Power Functions with this kit but you can figure out a way or look at other people who have done it. No, you cannot straightaway attach Power Functions with the 42048 set. There are sets (at ...
The LEGO Power Functions connectors have 4 standard designations regardless of the usage:
C1 "control 1"
C2 "control 2"
It seems for motors that the 9V and Ground are unused. The C1 and C2 are used in combination to pick the motor direction. If C1 is providing power and C2 is providing ground then the motor goes forward. If C2 is ...
Right now, the largest commercially available train is the Lego City Cargo Train, Set 60052. It comes in at about 887 pieces. There are 30 rail pieces in this kit. Extra rail pieces are also commercially available through Lego. The 7898-1 cargo train would come in second as far as piece count. Same amount of track as the 60052.
You can create crossover tracks out of LEGO elements much like I did in this video.
I got all the parts for around 4€
Also you can create your own slopes will standard LEGO tracks. You can watch then in action in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMWF465KWfY and read about how to create them yourself ...
As an addition to Ambo100's very nicely detailed answer, I'd like to add one more option: If either of the two things you are powering might suffer from friction (or perhaps a child holding it still), the provided solutions result in a lot of torque on the motor and axles, which in turn could lead to damage to those components (although LEGO motors are ...
While LEGO BOOST is compatible with the bricks from other sets, the motor, distance sensor, and Move Hub are not electrically compatible with current EV3 or PowerFunctions components. BOOST uses the same six pin connector as WeDo 2.0 from the Education line:
So, the bad news is that you can't easily use PF or EV3 motors with BOOST. However, LEGO plans to ...
You are not likely going to be able to add the power functions motor to this set without some major modifications. The truck in the set uses pin type wheel connections, the motors normally use technic axle style wheels, and there isn't really any extra room internally to place the motor.
According to Philo's LEGO motor datasheet an unladen PF-M motor rotates with 405 RPM.
One googol is 10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 (10^100), so the time it takes for an M motor to go this many rotations is (10^100)/405 minutes.
Ordinary calculators usually take a look at such large ...
You have several alternatives, and you can combine several approaches if you've got the cash:
You can buy individual Power Functions parts from a LEGO shop or from various other vendors. The advantage is that you'll get the specific parts that you're interested in. The down-side is that it'll probably cost you more than buying a set like 8293.
You can buy a ...
What you are describing is called backdriving. I teach my students, in principle, not to backdrive the output shaft of a gearbox, motor/gearbox, or servo/gearbox unless they know what's inside of it because you can damage the unit. I use a variety of different robots in my class so what I'm explaining applies to gear drives in general.
If you grasp the ...
Apart from those mentioned by Joe, there are several larger sets in the Advanced Models category. They are not powered out of the box, but can be motorized.
10233-1: Horizon Express 1351 pieces
10219: Maersk Train 1237 pcs
10194: Emerald Night 1085 pcs
10183: Hobby Trains 1080 pcs (This is actually for the previous train system, that used ...
I make a print (with silicon) of the Lego PF socket, in 2 halves.
I just need the C1 and C2 electrical contacts, so I'm just dealing with them, but you can go for the 4 contacts.
So in the bottom half, I insert two small pins from a DIP socket (for integrated circuits) in 2 tiny cuts I do with a kind of bistoury and insert the 2 pins in those two slots.
I would start by breaking down the problem into a few simple checks:
Take the battery pack out of the engine of the train and press the green button. Does the green LED light turn on? If no, there is likely a problem with either the batteries or the battery housing itself. You might want to take all the batteries out and reinsert them, or rotate the ...
Your assumptions appear to be mostly correct. Just for clarity, these are the minimum parts required:
A battery box
A motor for driving
A motor for steering (unless you want to try a steer-on-reverse single motor design)
An IR receiver (these can support two motors each)
An IR remote
Extension cables and/or lights are optional depending on the design of ...
There is a fairly easy and cheap way to do this since you don't want real variable speed control. As you noted, connecting the AAA battery box directly to the PF train motor technically works, but the motor runs too fast.
The default AAA battery box provides 9v from 6 AAA cells. Lowering this voltage will lower the speed of your motor. If you'd like to get ...
Regardless of the models, you can always connect a single motor to one or more models by splitting the axle using (for example) angular wheels or bevel gears.
I covered two ways of transmitting horizontal to vertical torque here using worm gears and knob wheels on a previous question about transmitting horizontal torque to vertical.
jncraton also has a ...