With some Power Functions elements and a few extra pieces, it's pretty easy to turn the Rally Car into an RC car.
Here's a quick demo video of my design in action.
And here are the instructions I made for it.
Required extra pieces
First you are going to need some extra pieces:
1x - Servo Motor
1x - IR Receiver
1x - Battery Box
1x - L-...
Unless you do extreme things it should be fine. All the gears insides the Train motors, Power Function motors and the NXT motors are made of Nylon while the pinion attached to
the motor is made of metal.
Since Nylon is much stronger than ABS plastic (normal LEGO plastic), the ABS would twist, tear or brake before damaging the nylon gears.
YES! Philippe Hurbain (Philo) has put together a great and very detailed write-up on those and many other LEGO 9V electric motors.
You can find it here: LEGO 9V Technic Motors compared characteristics
Your current draw for that specific motor @ 9V is:
No load: 65mA
Loaded (3.6 N.cm): 310mA
Loaded (6.0 N.cm): 480mA
Stalled (11 N....
You can do most things that you can do with traditional model railroads using LEGO trains. This includes cross track, bridges, switches, and inclines.
As far as I know, this was never released for either RC or PF trains. As you noted, there was a cross track part for the 9V trains. If you aren't aware, 9V, RC, and PF track is ...
This is a big question, but here are some of the basics:
The original 4.5V system worked with 3 x 1.5V C cells. It was produced between 1966 an 1986 and was used to power motors and lights in a wide variety of trains, technic, basic and even DUPLO sets.
Coexisting with this system, a 12V standard for LEGO Trains was introduced in 1969 and produced until ...
Ever since this question was asked I wanted to build something that would fit that scale. Here's the result:
I know this is not using only LEGO pieces but, I thought that there was no way to make the LEGO motors fit 'inside' a normal looking LEGO City vehicle. So, this is basically a homemade motorized brick made of a 2x2 brick glued to the 2x2 wheels-...
As mentioned by @guestguy123 and @eficker, it is easy to combine an EV3 cable and a PF cable to make a custom cable that allows the EV3 to control. This can even be done without soldering - I just twist the wires together and tape them with electrical tape. The full schematic is here:
All you need is 2 resistors (1x1kOhm and 1x10kOhm) which are cheap to get ...
It delivers a maximum torque of 90,4 mNm (600 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 220 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 45,4 mNm (450 mA). Without load its rotation speed is around 380 rotations per minute.
It delivers a maximum torque of 40 mNm (300 mA). Without load its rotation speed is ...
5300 and 10153 are from the former 9V train system and drew power from the metal tracks. They were controlled using a transformer attached to the tracks.
88002 runs on battery power from an onboard battery box. Trains with this kind of motor can run at a set speed, or can be controlled by adding IR remote controllers.
Regarding compatibility, the 5300 and ...
The present line of battery boxes all provide 800mA of current and have overload protection to ensure that this level is not exceeded. Here's what the LEGO website has to say about powering motors:
As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power ...
Most Power Functions pieces will run in classic 9V mode. The IR receiver can't, but motors and lights can.
A hacky solution:
Many people have done this by cutting up an extension wire, and connecting the two outer cables to their power source of choice.
From: Lego PF Hacking – Wire Hacking
GND – ground wire – Always connected (0V regardless of ...
In short, yes it's perfectly safe to run your old 9v motors from your Power Functions battery box.
This excellent online reference has a lot of information on various LEGO motors. Both the old 9v train motor and the Power Functions train motor are listed.
The information on the site shows that the characteristics of the two motors are very similar with the ...
The main benefit is consistent performance. The rechargeable battery puts out almost the same voltage until it's almost flat, and whatever current is required with little voltage drop. Disposable batteries have more voltage, but cheap ones can't supply much current. Expensive ones can supply the current, but cost more. You'd be lucky to get 5 sets of those ...
LEGO "Servo Motor" has little to do with a RC servomotor. To drive it, you need to:
Power it at 9V (probably works at 5 volts, but with less torque) through PWR/GND terminals
To move in one direction, send a PWM signal (1200 Hz, 0 to 100% duty cycle) on C1 and keep C2 at GND level. As duty cycle varies, servo motor will move along 7 positions on one side. ...
I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).
I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.
For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily ...
For a comprehensive enumeration and measurements on all motors, refer to Philo's excellent page on this topic: http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm
There are some LEGO motors that are missing from this list since they predate the 9V era, like the 4.5V motor, or the 4.5V train motor, but these are probably only of interest if you already own them, ...
Well the thing with LEGO, (Technic, Classic, Mindstorms or whichever category you talk about) is that it is customizable. You might not get instructions to combine Power Functions with this kit but you can figure out a way or look at other people who have done it. No, you cannot straightaway attach Power Functions with the 42048 set. There are sets (at ...
The LEGO Power Functions connectors have 4 standard designations regardless of the usage:
C1 "control 1"
C2 "control 2"
It seems for motors that the 9V and Ground are unused. The C1 and C2 are used in combination to pick the motor direction. If C1 is providing power and C2 is providing ground then the motor goes forward. If C2 is ...
If the motors are far apart, you could simply connect them both to the same receiver using some extension cables. To the best of my knowledge, there is no problem connecting two motors on the same input of one IR receiver.
If you're using Technic motors instead of train motors, as Zhaph said, you'll probably want to have them coupled through a differential ...
The best options to improve IR reception is to actually modify both the receiver and the remote (though the remote is more important to upgrade than the receiver).
Common modifications include replacing the transmitter/receiver element with higher range/power components (this may be at the cost of space), or adding reflectors behind the elements to better ...
Right now, the largest commercially available train is the Lego City Cargo Train, Set 60052. It comes in at about 887 pieces. There are 30 rail pieces in this kit. Extra rail pieces are also commercially available through Lego. The 7898-1 cargo train would come in second as far as piece count. Same amount of track as the 60052.
As an addition to Ambo100's very nicely detailed answer, I'd like to add one more option: If either of the two things you are powering might suffer from friction (or perhaps a child holding it still), the provided solutions result in a lot of torque on the motor and axles, which in turn could lead to damage to those components (although LEGO motors are ...
While LEGO BOOST is compatible with the bricks from other sets, the motor, distance sensor, and Move Hub are not electrically compatible with current EV3 or PowerFunctions components. BOOST uses the same six pin connector as WeDo 2.0 from the Education line:
So, the bad news is that you can't easily use PF or EV3 motors with BOOST. However, LEGO plans to ...
You are not likely going to be able to add the power functions motor to this set without some major modifications. The truck in the set uses pin type wheel connections, the motors normally use technic axle style wheels, and there isn't really any extra room internally to place the motor.
As the PF plugs are specific, the simplest thing to do is to buy a short extension cable, cut it in half and solder another cable in the middle. Current in PF cable can be pretty high, so to avoid too much drop it's best to avoid thin cable, I recommend 0.5mm² of copper section.
I have done an extensive review of both receivers, see it here.
This other page shows the performance of various motors connected to both receivers.
Note that because of a problem in Power Functions M-motor, the new receiver is not suitable for driving several of them on the same output. See this LEGO official notice.
You have several alternatives, and you can combine several approaches if you've got the cash:
You can buy individual Power Functions parts from a LEGO shop or from various other vendors. The advantage is that you'll get the specific parts that you're interested in. The down-side is that it'll probably cost you more than buying a set like 8293.
You can buy a ...
You can create crossover tracks out of LEGO elements much like I did in this video.
I got all the parts for around 4€
Also you can create your own slopes will standard LEGO tracks. You can watch then in action in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMWF465KWfY and read about how to create them yourself ...