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13

Here are some disassembly pictures and tips. Tools needed: Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover. T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws. Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden ...


8

One option might be to make yourself an ABS slurry by dissolving a sacrificial part of the desired color in Acetone: This should be able to bond chemically with the ABS parts for a strong connection, and you'll have extra plastic material to work with, so you should even be able to make it stronger than the original design by building up the area slightly ...


4

I was able to remove the screws properly with a Torx T9 screwdriver from our Duplo Train Push & Go Motor (28743).


4

According to various sources, LEGO pneumatics is not designed to work above 3 (or maybe 4) bars of pressure, so your setup might have been damaged by the overpressure. If you can "press on the the pumps in certain ways" then I would recommend starting your investigation there. As to actually locating the cause of the leakage, I have five main methods in ...


3

LEGO Pneumatic system could consist of different elements like hoses, switches, pumps, cylinders and T-junctions. Each one may need different approach. I could think of several ways of testing these issues. First one might be a little hard, but depending on the issue could be a quick solution. This would works for any pneumatic element. You need to get ...


3

Arms are cheap I'd recommend just buying some cheap replacements from a site like BrickLink. You can buy an unpainted torso for example, and some sellers even sell just the arms (some of the cheapest listings are described as cracked though, so avoid those). So long as the arm is not painted (which they are not usually), this should be a relatively cheap ...


3

The Lego Company is usually very good about replacing broken and defective parts for free. In the case of expensive electronic parts such as this, in my experience, they will sometimes request you send them the broken/defective one. If this is the case, they will make it easy for you and send everything you need to do so with your replacement. Because ...


3

The socket joints from around 2008-2010 were poorly designed. They were both too thin and too tight, so cracking was a very common problem. Because the issue is the shape of the part, super glue doesn't do much. I tested it out on of my broken joints and the parts cracked again the first time I connected it. So don't bother with that. What may help is ...


2

Unfortunately after attacking this piece from every angle with some plastic opening tools, I'm quite certain there is no non-destructive way to open this piece. I tried slipping a spudger in every seam where the plastic joins and was unable to find anywhere I could get any leverage, or even push it in more than a few millimeters. Even the jaw piece is held ...


1

I've had the same problem with two of my new LEGO sets. However, I've managed to fix my Stormtrooper helmet by taking a small piece of a rubber band about 2 centimeters long and put it between the helmet and the head. The rubber slows the spinning and it doesn't fall off as easily.


1

I was in same situation. In my case I fixed the problem replacing C61 capacitor that was shorted. I have found this schematic, but it seems not corresponding to 2.0 also because I can't follow it.


1

The button in the battery compartment is NOT the reset button - it's a switch meant to be depressed by the NXT rechargeable battery. The NXT reset button is inside one of the technic connector holes on the underside of the brick - you can push it with an uncoiled paperclip or a pencil lead. The reset button only toggles the power, it doesn't actually "...


1

Best way that I've just tried is to take a small and sharp screw driver and make one or two small scratches on the points where arms connect to the torso.


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