5300 and 10153 are from the former 9V train system and drew power from the metal tracks. They were controlled using a transformer attached to the tracks.
88002 runs on battery power from an onboard battery box. Trains with this kind of motor can run at a set speed, or can be controlled by adding IR remote controllers.
Regarding compatibility, the 5300 and ...
According to the product description on the LEGO® webn site, the LEGO® Power Functions Train Motor 88002, can be used to motorise the Western Train Chase.
The train wheels normally fit directly to this motor, so I'm sure that this train can be used on normal LEGO® tracks.
Looking at the instructions for both the Red Cargo Train and the Western Train Chase, ...
There's a nice looking mod on Rebrickable that includes full building instructions.
This includes the following PF components:
2 L-Motors - drive
1 M-Motor - tilt cab
1 M-Motor - boom elevation
1 M-Motor - rotate
1 M-Motor - winch
3 IR Receiver
3 IR Remote Control
1 Battery Box
The simplest way to get different speeds is by changing the gears. The instructions get you to build it with a 12:20 gear down in the portal axles, so the easiest way to change the speed is to flip those to get 20:12. From memory that will not work because it interferes with other parts of the model.
You can fit two 16 tooth gears in there instead, giving a ...
The strict minimum you need for PF motorization is:
Tracks. Sounds obvious, but don't forget these. Nope, there are none with the Maersk train.
A PF train motor
A PF battery box (plus 6 AAA batteries)
Now, as oezi says, it's a bit senseless to have a train which you can't control. Well, you can control it, but it's limited to switching it on and off (if ...
These light fit in a regular Technic hole, and thus have the same diameter as a stud.
I would recommend fitting them in the so-called "Erling" brick; after all, one of its regular (aka "boring") names is "Brick, 1 x 1 with headlight":
The only problem you'll have is that the light extends quite a bit at the back, but you can easily solve that by using a ...
You need these old school 5292 puppies ;-) 2 of them.
Check a motor comparison here
You're gonna have to do some after-market mods but those are very powerful , I have them from the 8366 set. But as you can see in the review, there are pro's and con's on every engine.
I suggest reading it in full, it's an amazing source of information and you'll learn a ...
There is a Bricklink store that sells custom-made train driver rods. I've never bought any so I can't speak to the quality. There are supposedly limitless varieties possible but given that you're looking for one that matches a set you should be able to find some already-made for that set.
Regarding the jamming issue, the most common problem is when the ...
The transformer can be omitted, if you find a suitable, cheaper one. Take a look at this question for more information about the exact requirements.
I don't think the other parts can be omitted, as...
A motor clearly is required to motorize something (#88002)
A motor won't work without a battery (#8878)
Something motorized that can't be controlled is ...
I used a grey 4 stud technic brick with 4 holes because didn't have two grey 1 stud 1hole technic bricks. The LED are about 1.33 units high so I had to raise the black platform height to accomodate the width of the LEDs. When I added lights to the Train Engine Operator cabin - I had to create more room inside so the train engine became a bit less sturdy. You ...
We tried motorizing our Western Train Chase with the Power Function box as suggested on the LEGO site. It doesn't work. Their isn't even enough power for it to pull the engine by itself. The battery box itself is really heavy. I wrote my complaint to Lego. On top of this problem, we also don't have enough curved track (despite the purchase of 3 boxes of ...
Both programs (Stud.io and LEGO Digital Draw) can read the LDraw extension (*.ldr).
I'm using Windows 10.
I have NOT ungraded to the Stud.io 2, but I think it shouldn't matter
in this case.
In Stud.io, we will be exporting the file into the *.ldr format.
In LDD we will be importing a *.ldr file to be readable in LDD.
You don't need the rechargeable battery box and that's the most expensive part. Get the AAA battery box and use your own rechargeable batteries.
$13 88000 AAA Battery box
$14 88002 Train Motor
$13 8879 IR Speed Remote
$15 8884 IR Receiver
That's about $55. Not cheap but not over the top. You'll also need tracks but even on a set you're going to need to ...
I found building instructions for a BR 23-001-L that has a more realistic look on the pistons.
Here is a pdf tutorial on what to think about when modelling steam engines in LEGO. There are pictures of different examples that has various solutions for pistons.
If there is no need for the bricks to belong to specific sets (as in, it's not important to be able to build some official models from them) then I'd say the best way is to look for ebay bulk brick sales. For around 100$ you can get several pounds or around a thousand semi-random pieces. Try searching for "lego pieces".
You have a lot of resources at hand as a teacher in your community. Have you considered sending home a request for gently used LEGO Bricks in your student's folders at the start of the year?
The parents of your kids may not have any on hand, but will certainly know someone who does!
You may also consider renting them from Pley. Their website allows for set rentals at a discounted rate. I'm sure if you emailed them they might have something special for educational institutes as well. I heard they are running a school program.
I suggest using google to search for them.
When I did that I found two threads on EuroBricks discussing this - here and here. The first thread links to a youtube video that has downloadable instructions. Note that the instructions are 19MB and the website is fairly slow.
You can switch 4 pairs of gears on each end of the crawler (2 pairs in the portal hubs and another 2 pairs inside the gearbox infront of the motor) do this on both ends or you run the risk of broken gears or premature motor wear. I ran 12 tooth gears all the way from the motor to my hubs for a dramatic increase in speed however the torque suffered severely, ...