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24

1977 When Technic was first introduced. Check out this alternative build of set 850:


17

Before I attempt to come up with an answer, let me share how I think through problems like this, as it might make it easier for others to solve problems like this in the future. We can see that the gap itself is 30 LDU, as modules are 20 LDU, so 1.5 modules is 30 LDU. Some quick rules of thumb: Multiples of 20 LDU can be made with regular bricks ...


15

The short answer is because the combined height of the two mini inverted brackets is greater than the interior space of a tile (or brick for that matter.) But you knew this already. I realize it isn't considered standard by the rest of the world, but because the only quality calipers I had access to tonight are customary, all these values will be in inches. ...


14

I attempt to create a searchable index of SNOT techniques, as this is called. Of those, the strongest 180 degree stud reversal are probably one of these: If you want to connect the two curves together bottom to bottom, you should be able to do it with an axle, sort of like these two techniques: If that doesn't work I once had luck playing around with a ...


12

I suggest using 4175 1x2 plate with ladder together with 3839 1x2 plate with handles SNOTted together with the help of 4070 1x1 brick with headlight, one 2x2 plate and 2 1x2 plates, like so: Yes, the whole thing is upside-down. This is normal. This contraption will hold the 2x3 tile snugly, thanks to the offset provided by the lip of the headlight brick. ...


10

Lego bricks are not sized similarly in each dimension. The height to width ratio of a brick is 6:5, which means that 2 bricks stacked on top of each other with their studs up are 6 plates high, but the same 2 bricks stacked on top of each other on their sides (studs facing sideways) are only 5 plates high. Said differently, bricks placed sideways (studs to ...


9

this way it can open and close Blue = 4276 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 2 Fingers Yellow = 4275 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers LightBlue = Plate 2 x 4 White = Plate 2 x 2 Pink = Plate 1 x 4 Light Bluish Gray = Plate 1 x 3 Yellowish Green = Plate 1 x 2 Red = Tile 2 x 2 Green = Tile 1 x 4


9

This is very old-school, but that's how I was doing SNOT in the early 80's: a plate, or a tile (as shown) snaps between 2 studs. I prefer tiles to plates, as I don't have studs-alignment issues, but I've used both, and both work.


8

I think this is how we did it as kids. However, it was 1970s. Probably too primitive, clumsy, or against the rules now.


7

There is a bit of a challenge with a geometry. LEGO doesn't produce much symmetrical hinges, otherwise they would be out of system. I could think of the following one piece you could achieve a close result - Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Pin Hole and 3 Holes - Top. It comes in White color as well, so you could incorporate in your layer of white plates. Here's a ...


7

As far as I know, it's not intended to have any building function, it's just there to prevent any excess plastic at the fill hole from getting in the way of other pieces. I can't find a good close-up picture, but that particular piece is filled through a hole in the mold at that location, which you can kinda see in this picture. Without the small recess, ...


7

If you'd like to keep your build studs up and avoid dealing with the 6:5 ratio, you could try to use Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Arm Up with the already mentioned Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 5 with Groove, as the 3.18 mm bar will slide in the groove just fine. Another option would be to keep the rest of the elevator car studs up, and only turn sideways for a few ...


5

Disclaimer: I don't have the roller coaster wheels or body, and have not tried this. The Skateboard with mag wheels comes to mind, as an example of a bar connection with little friction. If I remember correctly, the wheel bars are of normal diameter (regular clips have normal friction), so it is the board clips which are slightly larger than a regular clip.


5

My best solution so far are minifigure legs (which are pretty robust on their own) combined with a clip tile to hold the wall in place:


5

Generally, the lampholder plate does the job: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4081b but some idea of the scale you are working in will help get a better answer, or if you can post a picture of the model you might get a specific answer.


4

I came up with this (6 plates / 2 bricks) Blue = Plate 1 x4 Orange = Plate 2 x4 White = Tile 1 x4 Yellow = Tile 2 x 4 DkblGray = Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 2 Inverted also this (2 plates thick) Part# 15535 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Hole and Part# 18674 : Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud This one i saw somewhere else ("2.5" plates thick) Part# 18654 : ...


4

I propose a slightly different solution for the chair: Use Technic bricks. In this picture I have used 32526 Technic 5x3 bent 90 pieces, with 43857 Technic Beam 2 and 32523 Technic Beam 3 pieces to make the chair uniform. You can make one or two attachment points to ground by either utilizing 64276 Technic Beam 2 Liftarm with Straight Ball Joint as in the ...


4

The diameter of a bar (i.e. the axle) is the same as the distance between two studs. This can be leveraged in a variety of ways using hollow studs and bars. This uses upside-down 85861 1x1 round plates and short bar parts (48729): The hollow studs can be moved up and down in order to adjust the friction. Same technique, using 3959 Minifig Utensil, Torch and ...


4

Just like the other answer by @matthew jensen, I do not have the roller coaster wheels in my possession, so my answer is entirely based on what seems to work in Stud.io. It looks like you can construct a basic wheelholder using part 3176 - Plate 2x3 with Hole. Here is how I would do this: I am using 2 small 1x2 - 1x2 inverted brackets and a 2x3 plate in the ...


4

I'm gonna suggest a different, non-conventional approach. This revolves around offsetting some 6016 3x4 grille, so each 2x3 tile fits through several grilles at once: For an even more minimalistic look, rely on 4733 1x1 brick with studs on 4 sides and 2555 1x1 tile with clip, then add your own 1x1 brick/plate column: Given the difficulties of making this ...


3

Another convenient way I found is with the new triangular 2x2 tiles. The only issue is that the color selection is a little limited. For simple pentagon shape, Modified 2 x 3 Pentagonal Tile is quite versatile.


3

This is one method using levers via Swooshable


3

There ARE integer sided triangles that have angles of 60 or 120 degrees, see here : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eisenstein_triple but I'm not sure how this helps you for building roads. 45 degrees there indeed aren't any. A progress of going one stud forward one stud left will get you 45 degrees if working studs on top. In case of SNOT 2 studs forward, 5 ...


2

While Windfire's suggestion is valid, there are several elements with opposing studs. Many of the parts listed on that link don't apply, but several do, including the first five. If you're not clone-averse, Cobi makes some great plates with studs on both sides, though I have no idea where you can get them aside from buying entire sets known to contain them....


2

You can wedge a 1xN plate between studs (at a 90 degree angle) to the "normal" orientation. Repeat a second time, and now 2 bricks are stud-to-stud.


1

Perhaps try 4 copies of Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Handle on Side with Free Ends, for the "base" of each level, with Flag 2 x 2 Square as the "rack"?, and 2x2 bricks (square or round) up the centre? Then stick the whole thing on a 2x2 turntable base. Depending on clutch strength, you might need another part on the diagonals, to stop ...


1

I would remove last two plates since they ruin the geometry here. And instead I can suggest using any modified brick with two studs facing towards hinged brick (white colored bricks). Technic, Pin Connector Round 2/3 L (seen in red) could then be used to attach studs on both sides. Orange plate below confirms all of this fit in required space. A bit of ...


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