If you want to “turn on and forget” you might want to look into obtaining a circle of old 9V track (metal rails produced by LEGO until 2007) and a power supply, plus a 9V train motor. It will not be cheap (the track pieces, especially curves, won’t be too expensive but a working 9V train motor is a $50-$75 purchase) however it will allow you to turn the ...
Yes, the rechargeable battery box would work.
However, if your intention is to avoid expenses, you are better off with buying the IR-receiver, IR remote and the regular battery box rather than the rechargeable one. The rechargeable battery box is no longer available from Lego for quite some time now and is getting expensive on the secondary market as well (e....
My back wheels do the same thing. There is no metal axle that connects both back wheels like the axle design does for the front wheels, but I'm sure LEGO designed it that way.
So, imagine the train's motor being in an "ON" state just a rolling. Now enters a kid, just being a kid. Grabs the thing, and starts a rolling in whichever direction kiddie wants ...
They are protective locks. If something (let’s say kids hair, or part of their clothes) gets stuck and dragged inside the wheel, these tiny blocks will lock the wheels and make sure it doesn’t keep dragging whatever is stuck. As soon as you pull the stuck part back, the springs unlock.
I thought I’d update you on the situation for anyone else in a similar position.
I got in touch with Lego via email, it took a while for them to get back due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which is totally understandable.
I received a bright breezy fun reply from someone called Ryan who said he would send me replacement battery box and remote. Once I received ...
The train bodies do indeed consist of a stack of 4x4 "blocks" that were fully enclosed when assembled - and as I recall, we could fit a seated Duplo character within most of the cab sections.
Toby and the coaches had the most room, but most engines just about had room.
TLDR: Scale for train MOC is a personal preference based on the needs.
There is a lot of personal preferences here. Like, how do you decide if the LEGO track geometry should translate to standard gauge? Why not any other track gauge available in other countries? How do you scale the model if it originally use slightly wider gauge? So there'...
You can attach (stack) more than one motor on the same connector (red or blue) of PF IR Receiver to control them at the same time. This is exactly what is being done in 9398 set, for example (although it uses V2 of PF IR Receiver). They will be spinning in the same direction with a push of a single button. If you need to reverse the rotation of one of the ...
Yes, essentially it was designed for applications like trains since it has an option to increase power gradually, unlike 8885 controller which is ON-OFF (basically with two speed settings - "9" and "0"). You can do this by turning orange disks to start moving your train. There are 9 "speeds" in each direction. And you have two ...
I suggest you contact LEGO support. The set is recent enough for them to have spare parts. They'll happily replace the Push & Go component if you can demonstrate the part is defective and you own the set. To prove you own the set you'll need a code in the instruction booklet.
Such place indeed exist and it is called Bricklink, a website dedicated to trading LEGO items. It has extensive history and great catalog of LEGO items found on the internet. Prices and quality are, usually, far better than you would find on eBay. And as an extra bonus, there are sellers from all over the world, so you are not limited to you own region.
While I can't speak of the handling of these parts, the possibility of receiving official replacement parts from TLG is surely zero. That leaves us only the second-hand market, which fortunately offers genuine LEGO replacement pieces, sometimes even in brand new condition. Note though, that even though the brittleness problem might stem from lots of play or ...
I'll assume you mean the most recent Hogwards express but this applies to most trains:
The simplest way to motorize most Lego steam engine sets that weren't made for motorization is to rebuild the coal car to sit on the train motor and contain the battery box. This typically results in a somewhat oversized coal car, but it's not ridiculously sized. If you ...
It looks like the best practice is to adjust the proportions to the constraints imposed by the media.
For example, the closest LEGO rendition of a modern high-speed train, the 10233 Horizon Express has cars that are built on a 6x28 chassis piece, which gives a very different width-length ratio than the ICE2 (3.02 m : 26.40 m). And it just works and looks ...
Okay, this post is closing in 2 years old, but I have found it looking for a solution to my problem, so others may find it too. I found out two important things:
You don't need to cut or drill the switch to get to the offending spring. You can lift the pivot peg out getting at it from the top.
If the spring is FUBAR or missing, you can actually 3D print it.
I've done some experimentation with using one powered up controller over two hub devices ... ( You must have one motor on channel A in Hub 1 & the other on Channel B in Hub 2 ) Seems to work, pairing involves turning on all devices at once, ( controller & Hub ) and waiting for it to sync + same with turning it off - press & hold all devices for 5 ...
If there is a suspicion that the metal surfaces have developed dust and grime or any other insulating layer, a solution would be to give the tracks a Brasso (or other metal polish) wipe and quick rinse and dry with water. Also give the train motor wheels a wipe of the same polish.
Also check this YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCda7voqyUY
As seen in this video, it is possible to add Power Functions to set 7745 and run the train on gray tracks
Lego Train 7745 with Power Functions
photo from Brickshelf gallery
Lego 7745 powerfunktion
Regarding to wheel split and interlocking tabs:
There is simpier way to do it, hopefully without permanent damage to the wheel.
Requires: 2+ flat precision screwdrivers.
Push screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel
Push another screwdriver to the closest hole with tab - push from the centre to the edge
Optionally - ...
FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER
So, I managed to disassemble the wheel axle from the gear axle, which show what I was expecting, a broken piece in the freewheel.
As my question is on how to disassemble the wheel itself @Rin Rio-Oki answer is the correct one.
A picture is worth a thousand words so put picture ...
The wheel axle is simply force in the gear ...
If the schematic you are asking is for the LegoDuplo, Train Push & Go Motor
with the circuit board that looks like:
This schematic is proprietary information that belongs to the Lego group.
This element uses a Bluetooth Low Energy radio and has an FCC ID: NPI28743
Perhaps you could create your own schematic and post it here.
Generally for this sort of thing the recommendation is a "light machine oil" (the wording from the Hornby Maintenance sheets). These are "non-penetrating" and so won't damage the plastics which might happen with 3-in-1 or WD-40 style oils.
This can often be found as "Sewing Machine Oil".
Fleischmann (a model railway brand) sell ...
Petroleum based lubricants you need to be careful with, since they can act as solvents. Zhaph mentioned non-penetrating machine oil, this sounds like a safe bet. If you are in doubt, grab a gnawed brick and submerge it in a sample for a few days and see what happens before putting it on your precious train parts. Science!
Second hand info:
I have heard that ...
Hmm, very strange. 🤔 We cannot solve this, so you should contact Lego's customer service at https://lego.com/service and they will give you a replacement for free. They occasionally make oopsies with their technical components every now and then, and I've had a similar problem with the Boost 17101 hub lacking connection under common circumstances.
I had exactly same issue with same model.
The battery box HUB NO. 4 was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.
I changed to brand new batteries.
Still the hub was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.
As they mention above it's due to the batteries is out.
What I like to add and to highlight is that there is x6 batteries to change.
This is more of a follow up to the HpTerm's "FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER":
Firstly I did manage to disassemble the wheels pretty easily. Similarly to Murder.exe's answer I did push the screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel. However I did not use a 2nd screwdriver - I just slowly pushed the external part of the ...
The answer is yes.
Using the 13v~ (alternate) output of the grey line transformer you can command the blue line switches.
This is not in the manual of the new transformer (it is a kind of hidden door to the past) and the blue line transformer switches output was 16v~, but I've tried it and it works.