For this experiment we're using the wheeled Duplo push and go motor block and red cabin from Set #10874.
The wheel width of the motor is the same width as a non motor base.
So, for this train to stay on the six stud track, the wheels need to sit either on the inside of the tracks or the outside of the tracks.
As the last picture shows, the wheels ...
From a train point of view those wheels will fit happily within the guides of the bridge, and the connections on the tracks should just about fit as well.
I'm fairly sure we bought our bridge when we were staying in a holiday cottage that had a load of the old black track, and it connected to the track successfully, but you may need to work with some curves ...
I thought I’d update you on the situation for anyone else in a similar position.
I got in touch with Lego via email, it took a while for them to get back due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which is totally understandable.
I received a bright breezy fun reply from someone called Ryan who said he would send me replacement battery box and remote. Once I received ...
They are protective locks. If something (let’s say kids hair, or part of their clothes) gets stuck and dragged inside the wheel, these tiny blocks will lock the wheels and make sure it doesn’t keep dragging whatever is stuck. As soon as you pull the stuck part back, the springs unlock.
The train bodies do indeed consist of a stack of 4x4 "blocks" that were fully enclosed when assembled - and as I recall, we could fit a seated Duplo character within most of the cab sections.
Toby and the coaches had the most room, but most engines just about had room.
My back wheels do the same thing. There is no metal axle that connects both back wheels like the axle design does for the front wheels, but I'm sure LEGO designed it that way.
So, imagine the train's motor being in an "ON" state just a rolling. Now enters a kid, just being a kid. Grabs the thing, and starts a rolling in whichever direction kiddie wants ...
TLDR: Scale for train MOC is a personal preference based on the needs.
There is a lot of personal preferences here. Like, how do you decide if the LEGO track geometry should translate to standard gauge? Why not any other track gauge available in other countries? How do you scale the model if it originally use slightly wider gauge? So there'...
You can attach (stack) more than one motor on the same connector (red or blue) of PF IR Receiver to control them at the same time. This is exactly what is being done in 9398 set, for example (although it uses V2 of PF IR Receiver). They will be spinning in the same direction with a push of a single button. If you need to reverse the rotation of one of the ...
Such place indeed exist and it is called Bricklink, a website dedicated to trading LEGO items. It has extensive history and great catalog of LEGO items found on the internet. Prices and quality are, usually, far better than you would find on eBay. And as an extra bonus, there are sellers from all over the world, so you are not limited to you own region.
I'll assume you mean the most recent Hogwards express but this applies to most trains:
The simplest way to motorize most Lego steam engine sets that weren't made for motorization is to rebuild the coal car to sit on the train motor and contain the battery box. This typically results in a somewhat oversized coal car, but it's not ridiculously sized. If you ...
It looks like the best practice is to adjust the proportions to the constraints imposed by the media.
For example, the closest LEGO rendition of a modern high-speed train, the 10233 Horizon Express has cars that are built on a 6x28 chassis piece, which gives a very different width-length ratio than the ICE2 (3.02 m : 26.40 m). And it just works and looks ...
There are numerous solutions over internet for attaching SG90 servo with LEGO. However I remember this particular video, which fit your need to attach/control Technic beams/liftarms. It also features required parts for this build at 7:48.
As seen in this video, it is possible to add Power Functions to set 7745 and run the train on gray tracks
Lego Train 7745 with Power Functions
photo from Brickshelf gallery
Lego 7745 powerfunktion
If there is a suspicion that the metal surfaces have developed dust and grime or any other insulating layer, a solution would be to give the tracks a Brasso (or other metal polish) wipe and quick rinse and dry with water. Also give the train motor wheels a wipe of the same polish.
Also check this YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCda7voqyUY
You may want to contact the LEGO customer service about it and see if they can provide a replacement brick. Assuming your train is 10874 or 10875, they should still have it in stock and you can probably just order a new one via a replacement part order.
On the other hand, since the recognition appear to be indeed color-based this might not help at all.
If the schematic you are asking is for the LegoDuplo, Train Push & Go Motor
with the circuit board that looks like:
This schematic is proprietary information that belongs to the Lego group.
This element uses a Bluetooth Low Energy radio and has an FCC ID: NPI28743
Perhaps you could create your own schematic and post it here.
Hmm, very strange. 🤔 We cannot solve this, so you should contact Lego's customer service at https://lego.com/service and they will give you a replacement for free. They occasionally make oopsies with their technical components every now and then, and I've had a similar problem with the Boost 17101 hub lacking connection under common circumstances.
FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER
So, I managed to disassemble the wheel axle from the gear axle, which show what I was expecting, a broken piece in the freewheel.
As my question is on how to disassemble the wheel itself @Rin Rio-Oki answer is the correct one.
A picture is worth a thousand words so put picture ...
The wheel axle is simply force in the gear ...
I've done some experimentation with using one powered up controller over two hub devices ... ( You must have one motor on channel A in Hub 1 & the other on Channel B in Hub 2 ) Seems to work, pairing involves turning on all devices at once, ( controller & Hub ) and waiting for it to sync + same with turning it off - press & hold all devices for 5 ...
The answer is yes.
Using the 13v~ (alternate) output of the grey line transformer you can command the blue line switches.
This is not in the manual of the new transformer (it is a kind of hidden door to the past) and the blue line transformer switches output was 16v~, but I've tried it and it works.