YES! Philippe Hurbain (Philo) has put together a great and very detailed write-up on those and many other LEGO 9V electric motors.
You can find it here: LEGO 9V Technic Motors compared characteristics
Your current draw for that specific motor @ 9V is:
No load: 65mA
Loaded (3.6 N.cm): 310mA
Loaded (6.0 N.cm): 480mA
Stalled (11 N....
This is a big question, but here are some of the basics:
The original 4.5V system worked with 3 x 1.5V C cells. It was produced between 1966 an 1986 and was used to power motors and lights in a wide variety of trains, technic, basic and even DUPLO sets.
Coexisting with this system, a 12V standard for LEGO Trains was introduced in 1969 and produced until ...
The bulk of the space inside the Powered Up hub is consumed by the housing for the 6 AAA batteries. A small portion of the top of the hub contains the main printed circuit board. Here's how it looks removed from the hub:
And here's another shot showing the back:
The main chip is very similar to the one used in Boost. It uses an STM32F030 from ST ...
Yes, you can buy all the electronic parts by themselves, but given that the electronic parts are the bulk of the cost, you may not save much.
The MINDSTORMS EV3 set (MSRP $349.99 USD) contains:
1 - EV3 Intelligent Brick (MSRP $189.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Color Sensor (MSRP $39.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Infrared Sensor (MSRP $29.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Touch Sensor (MSRP $19.99 USD)
NiMH batteries only provide 1.2V per cell whereas Alkaline batteries provide 1.5V (nominal values). This means that new/fully charged batteries will provide a total of 9V for Alkaline and 7.2V for NiMH. The EV3 is programmed to show low battery somewhere around 6.2V and turn itself off around 5.5V. There is no option a available to tell the EV3 the ...
I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).
I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.
For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily ...
The LEGO Power Functions connectors have 4 standard designations regardless of the usage:
C1 "control 1"
C2 "control 2"
It seems for motors that the 9V and Ground are unused. The C1 and C2 are used in combination to pick the motor direction. If C1 is providing power and C2 is providing ground then the motor goes forward. If C2 is ...
The short answer is about 150mA.
From the limited testing that I've done, the component you pointed out appears to be a positive temperature coefficient thermistor. Here's how Wikipedia describes their use as current limiters:
When first connected to a voltage source, a large current
corresponding to the low, cold, ...
I'd be tempted to use the Batmobile (76112) design:
Basically, you have independent motors for the left and right wheels. This allows you to steer quickly and easily without the fuss of a traditional steering system.
The Batmobile is $100 MSRP, and can be found on sale. The included motor controller is Bluetooth based, and can be remote controlled via a ...
Here's what the main board in the Move Hub looks like from the top:
The Move Hub includes the following hardware:
The two built in motors are fairly standard DC motors. They include optics in the early stage of the gearing for rotation counting.
There are two LB1836 motor drivers on the board. They are dual channel parts, so ...
I don't have this part, so I can't directly give you the photos that you are looking for, but there is at least one teardown video floating around that we can use to see what is inside the BuWizz 2.0 module.
The module contains 2x 850mAh LiPo batteries:
The top of the PCB looks something like this:
I wasn't able to find an image showing the ...
I make a print (with silicon) of the Lego PF socket, in 2 halves.
I just need the C1 and C2 electrical contacts, so I'm just dealing with them, but you can go for the 4 contacts.
So in the bottom half, I insert two small pins from a DIP socket (for integrated circuits) in 2 tiny cuts I do with a kind of bistoury and insert the 2 pins in those two slots.
Sounds like this:
Which can be found in set 8364 only. It's recharged by pushing the car on a charging track piece, itself powered by batteries:
Not particularly good, but the sheer number of track parts in the set makes it interesting to buy for some people.
There is a fairly easy and cheap way to do this since you don't want real variable speed control. As you noted, connecting the AAA battery box directly to the PF train motor technically works, but the motor runs too fast.
The default AAA battery box provides 9v from 6 AAA cells. Lowering this voltage will lower the speed of your motor. If you'd like to get ...
It sounds like you are asking how to motorize your own custom LEGO creations using motors that you may already have around the house rather than purchasing official motors.
Before I answer this, I just want to make sure that you are aware that you can purchase the PF motors individually on LEGO.com for fairly cheap. You don't have to buy large, expensive ...
The main functional difference between these is the electrical connector. The one with the red switch uses the old style 9V connection, while the one with the orange switch uses the newer Power Functions connector.
These are both the same voltage (9V), and you can mix the two systems using the Power Functions Extension Wire (8886).
Here's an example ...
Cost. If you look at any set with electric motors, etc. you will see a significant increase in the price of these sets. They have marketing research groups and accountants that somewhat dictate the price range of the sets they release. Any engineer with good experience can tell you of the headaches of dealing with keeping production cost down. Since the ...
If we open the hub we can take a look at the main PCB inside. There's just one PCB in addition to a small speaker and the replaceable lithium ion battery. Here's the top of the PCB:
And the bottom:
We see that the main CPU is an STM32F413. It includes 1M of flash and 320k of RAM and the ARM Cortex M4 core can be clocked up to 100MHz.
In addition to the 1M ...
Credit where it’s due, Keshav Saharia’s gates were an attempt to simplify those found here:
If you look carefully Keshav's gates you'll see that they suffer from a fundamental flaw in that they can't be reset, the input rods are completely decoupled so pulling them out does nothing.
LEGO itself does not make specific firmware/software to support other devices other than the official NXT brick but...
...you can still use Arduino and Raspberry Pi (and more) with the NXT components including the NXT brick. Personally, I mix LEGO and electronics all the time.
Arduino & Raspberry Pi are flexible development platforms and they can ...
According to bricklink, 88003 is the set containing exactly one part, namely the 99499 motor.
You can buy the motor as a set in LEGO shops or online, it's packaged in a plastic bag, which probably accounts for the 3 gram weight difference between the items.
To my knowledge there are no different versions of the Power Functions L motor.
Here is the list of ...
Boost and the other Powered Up components (the new City trains, the app-controlled batmobile, and WeDo 2.0) are controlled via Bluetooth. Any environment that can send bluetooth commands can be used to control these components.
There is a github page which documents some of the reverse-engineering that has been done and it links to several third-party Boost/...
If I were you, I'd try to use a car chassis as simple as possible.
This would achieve multiple goals:
By using a vehicle with the least amount of complexity you can keep the price low.
By avoiding unnecessary parts the students' attention will not be drawn from the topic at hand, e.g. they will be more inclined to listen and cooperate if they are not ...
If built according to the instructions, the wheels should not be powered at all. The only motorized functions is opening the hood, doors and spoiler. Moving the wheels should not affect these functions, nor should the wheels move when operating the functions.
So my guess is that someone did a poor attempt at modding this model and you'll have to deconstruct ...
According to Philo's detailed analysis of the servomotor, it takes its commands from the C lines but needs to be powered as well:
Being a Power Functions range member, it is fully integrated with this system, and receives its commended position through C1/C2 lines, and its power from supply lines. On a normal motor, C1/C2 duty cycle directly control motor ...
Turns out the problem is that Servo motors need at least THREE wires. Two for the PWM and one for full power. I made a new connector (and I can attach a picture if anyone is interested . . . just don't have one handy right now) that had all four of the wires from the Lego brick connected to breadboarding pins and then I wired the two new wires to +9 and ...