YES! Philippe Hurbain (Philo) has put together a great and very detailed write-up on those and many other LEGO 9V electric motors.
You can find it here: LEGO 9V Technic Motors compared characteristics
Your current draw for that specific motor @ 9V is:
No load: 65mA
Loaded (3.6 N.cm): 310mA
Loaded (6.0 N.cm): 480mA
Stalled (11 N....
The bulk of the space inside the Powered Up hub is consumed by the housing for the 6 AAA batteries. A small portion of the top of the hub contains the main printed circuit board. Here's how it looks removed from the hub:
And here's another shot showing the back:
The main chip is very similar to the one used in Boost. It uses an STM32F030 from ST ...
Yes, you can buy all the electronic parts by themselves, but given that the electronic parts are the bulk of the cost, you may not save much.
The MINDSTORMS EV3 set (MSRP $349.99 USD) contains:
1 - EV3 Intelligent Brick (MSRP $189.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Color Sensor (MSRP $39.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Infrared Sensor (MSRP $29.99 USD)
1 - EV3 Touch Sensor (MSRP $19.99 USD)
NiMH batteries only provide 1.2V per cell whereas Alkaline batteries provide 1.5V (nominal values). This means that new/fully charged batteries will provide a total of 9V for Alkaline and 7.2V for NiMH. The EV3 is programmed to show low battery somewhere around 6.2V and turn itself off around 5.5V. There is no option a available to tell the EV3 the ...
I eventually made my design available for download over at Shapeways with a CC BY-NC-SA license (login is required in order to download the STL file).
I tested it at my local maker space in PLA on a µDelta 3D printer.
For the electrical contacts, I tried with pins scavenged from a DIP IC socket like Cyril suggested but the pins were a bit fickle and easily ...
The LEGO Power Functions connectors have 4 standard designations regardless of the usage:
C1 "control 1"
C2 "control 2"
It seems for motors that the 9V and Ground are unused. The C1 and C2 are used in combination to pick the motor direction. If C1 is providing power and C2 is providing ground then the motor goes forward. If C2 is ...
The short answer is about 150mA.
From the limited testing that I've done, the component you pointed out appears to be a positive temperature coefficient thermistor. Here's how Wikipedia describes their use as current limiters:
When first connected to a voltage source, a large current
corresponding to the low, cold, ...
I'd be tempted to use the Batmobile (76112) design:
Basically, you have independent motors for the left and right wheels. This allows you to steer quickly and easily without the fuss of a traditional steering system.
The Batmobile is $100 MSRP, and can be found on sale. The included motor controller is Bluetooth based, and can be remote controlled via a ...
IR Transmitter Tower exist in both USB version as well as Serial cable version.
Page 7 of instructions for one of the sets (3804) that was using USB version has following explanation:
The IR Tower establishes a wireless link between your computer and the
RCX. With the IR Tower, programs can be downloaded from computer to
RCX. These programs ...
Here's what the main board in the Move Hub looks like from the top:
The Move Hub includes the following hardware:
The two built in motors are fairly standard DC motors. They include optics in the early stage of the gearing for rotation counting.
There are two LB1836 motor drivers on the board. They are dual channel parts, so ...
They are protective locks. If something (let’s say kids hair, or part of their clothes) gets stuck and dragged inside the wheel, these tiny blocks will lock the wheels and make sure it doesn’t keep dragging whatever is stuck. As soon as you pull the stuck part back, the springs unlock.
I have also little soldering experience, but I managed to create custom extension cables:
First: open the cover with a small screw driver:
Remove the PCB by lifting the small notch to open the light block
Then you drill a small hole into the opposite side of the metal plates, insert a small 2-wire cable (~0,25mm) and solder it to the PCB.
The outer ring is ...
I don't have this part, so I can't directly give you the photos that you are looking for, but there is at least one teardown video floating around that we can use to see what is inside the BuWizz 2.0 module.
The module contains 2x 850mAh LiPo batteries:
The top of the PCB looks something like this:
I wasn't able to find an image showing the ...
If we open the hub we can take a look at the main PCB inside. There's just one PCB in addition to a small speaker and the replaceable lithium ion battery. Here's the top of the PCB:
And the bottom:
We see that the main CPU is an STM32F413. It includes 1M of flash and 320k of RAM and the ARM Cortex M4 core can be clocked up to 100MHz.
In addition to the 1M ...
It sounds like you are asking how to motorize your own custom LEGO creations using motors that you may already have around the house rather than purchasing official motors.
Before I answer this, I just want to make sure that you are aware that you can purchase the PF motors individually on LEGO.com for fairly cheap. You don't have to buy large, expensive ...
I make a print (with silicon) of the Lego PF socket, in 2 halves.
I just need the C1 and C2 electrical contacts, so I'm just dealing with them, but you can go for the 4 contacts.
So in the bottom half, I insert two small pins from a DIP socket (for integrated circuits) in 2 tiny cuts I do with a kind of bistoury and insert the 2 pins in those two slots.
The main functional difference between these is the electrical connector. The one with the red switch uses the old style 9V connection, while the one with the orange switch uses the newer Power Functions connector.
These are both the same voltage (9V), and you can mix the two systems using the Power Functions Extension Wire (8886).
Here's an example ...
There is a fairly easy and cheap way to do this since you don't want real variable speed control. As you noted, connecting the AAA battery box directly to the PF train motor technically works, but the motor runs too fast.
The default AAA battery box provides 9v from 6 AAA cells. Lowering this voltage will lower the speed of your motor. If you'd like to get ...
Cost. If you look at any set with electric motors, etc. you will see a significant increase in the price of these sets. They have marketing research groups and accountants that somewhat dictate the price range of the sets they release. Any engineer with good experience can tell you of the headaches of dealing with keeping production cost down. Since the ...
Skip on over to YouTube and watch this guy fix one of his toddler's jammed up trains.
Comparing your picture to his video, we can see the general area where the "hip springs" should be, but from my vantage point I can't tell if the pieces snap in somehow, or if they were broken off during disassembly. That's where you'll have to step in to make ...
According to bricklink, 88003 is the set containing exactly one part, namely the 99499 motor.
You can buy the motor as a set in LEGO shops or online, it's packaged in a plastic bag, which probably accounts for the 3 gram weight difference between the items.
To my knowledge there are no different versions of the Power Functions L motor.
Here is the list of ...
Boost and the other Powered Up components (the new City trains, the app-controlled batmobile, and WeDo 2.0) are controlled via Bluetooth. Any environment that can send bluetooth commands can be used to control these components.
There is a github page which documents some of the reverse-engineering that has been done and it links to several third-party Boost/...
If I were you, I'd try to use a car chassis as simple as possible.
This would achieve multiple goals:
By using a vehicle with the least amount of complexity you can keep the price low.
By avoiding unnecessary parts the students' attention will not be drawn from the topic at hand, e.g. they will be more inclined to listen and cooperate if they are not ...
For the first switch I bent the legs of the button and splayed them out just a little bit.
Next I stripped off the caps of two Dupont connectors, ran them through the headlight bricks and connected the button upside down.
An axle will trigger the button. Either one with a stud on one end (and a 1x1 tile) or a regular one with a half bush.
A 2x2 brick on ...
Yes, a smart device is required. The box says the following:
Smart device required but not included
However, this set is not like Boost, where the intelligent brick just adds weight to your model without a smart device. Mario functions without being paired to a smart device. He can complete the course, collect coins, etc.
The most significant limitation ...
LEGO doesn't make something to directly facilitate this type of integration as far as I know. If you can get a PF extension wire, you could cut it and directly make the connections to your driver circuit.
You can drive the motor using the middle wires of the PF cable (C1 and C2).
For what its worth, I would personally prefer an H-bridge such as this one ...