These are instructions from "LEGO Books - Idea Book #1 or 221", that was released in 1973.
YouTuber BrickTsar uploaded his entire childhood book HERE.
Similar to the LEGO Idea books I had as a kid in the late 80's, these types of books were made with multiple sets in mind.
So, there isn't a focus on one specific set. The focus was you nagging your ...
That is a Kawada Dia Block made in Japan. Entex and Sears imported those into the US in the 70’s and 80’s and repackaged them under such brands as Loc Bloc and Brix Blox. The “S” is actually a K on top of a D, which is the emblem for the Japanese toy company Kawada. Dia Blocks are still made and available in Japan today.
Those would be Waffle Bottoms, which seem to have been mostly phased out by 1969, except for the 4x8 plate that went until 1971. Having not read any deep history on old LEGO designs, I'm going with that was just what they went with to start, then realized that the tubes were much better.
This is a common issue with the older Lego 9V cables. Lots of sources, including myself, have experienced the same thing - this particular chemistry of insulation ages poorly, no matter how well it's stored. Cables made later, circa 2004-2006 don't seem to have this issue - the insulation is less rubbery and more plasticy, and is still shiny like new to this ...
Every Lego wooden duck I have seen, whether in person or on the internet, is sitting on a platform with the wheels attached to the platform. This is the original version:
Here is a later version:
Are there any markings on the toy itself that lead you to believe it is a Lego product?
I just built the bridge yesterday. I didn't have all the parts so had to be creative at some points.
I'll improve some joints once I picked up more of my Lego at my dads' place.
Very funny project!
Your box is a 700/1 Swedish box (a 700/2 doesn't have that much blue space above and below the image). Value depends on what is inside as well: the bricks/windows/doors, as well as if the interior cardboard partitions are still there.
Also, I know several collectors (with deep pockets) who would be interested if you still want to sell this set.
The earliest LEGO bricks were made in 1949, and they had completely empty undersides with vertical notches in two of their sides for attaching windows, doors and decorative cardboard inserts:
Then in 1958 (or 1961, depending on the country) the form known today was adopted, with tubes on the bottom and without notches:
It is one box from 364-1: Harbour Scene from 1975:
Here's what the particular box looked like in newer condition:
And here's the set freshly opened with your box slotted into its place. Your box is the top center one if you can't tell from the image.
Here's a video covering this set in detail.
I have solved the mystery. After searching up many different vintage plastic bricks (I had no idea there were so many), I stumbled upon LOC BLOC, made in the USA in the 1970's by a company called Entex. I still don't get what the "S" symbol on top of the brick is, but they match completely.
From a train point of view those wheels will fit happily within the guides of the bridge, and the connections on the tracks should just about fit as well.
I'm fairly sure we bought our bridge when we were staying in a holiday cottage that had a load of the old black track, and it connected to the track successfully, but you may need to work with some curves ...
Thanks for your help with this construction. I have made a faithful copy of this 1968 catalog bridge, pics:-
also a list of components. Hope that's helpful. I have a 12 image photo diary of the build ...
As I understand it, "Pat. Pend." bricks were made in the 1960's.
Later around 1970 they removed "Pat. Pend." by carving it out of the molds, so there is a lump in place of it. These are sometimes called "Pat. Pend. removed". Those ran until 1976-ish?
I don't think any of these bricks are much more valuable than the others. Old generic bricks aren't ...
For starters, having that as a production error is completely impossible, given the industrial precision of our beloved bricks. The LEGO group has been incredibly careful for decades about the tolerance of their bricks' dimensions:
You can read this WIRED article where the author compares old and new bricks' dimensions (TL;DR: they have been making really ...
As Syberion mentioned, Gary Isztok is the authority on old LEGO sets. Mursten (Bricks in most Scandinavian languages) is the old name for the LEGO line (after Automatic Binding Bricks but before LEGO System) at a time when the product wasn’t yet globally availaible.
I would strongly recommend reaching out to him (he has a facebook page as well, look for the ...
They are rarer because fewer exists, they were made a long time ago, and LEGO has procuded many more elements since.
They are treasured by some because some collectors value having accurate bricks in their old sets, because they get that bit more authentic. I only care when there's a more easily visible difference like a groove on 2x2 tiles, or open/closed ...
Given the quality of LEGO bricks, I would argue that an original box filled with the correct amount of the correct bricks from the same time period as the box is INDISTINGUISHABLE from an opened box containing the original bricks after use, and as such I would recommend you continue your effort. Just make sure that the bricks are indeed from the correct ...
The set(s) in question are likely two versions of set 1210 Small Store, released in 1955, or 210 Small Store, sold in 1958. They were available in a number of languages and with a variety of store names. "Tabak" means Tobacco in both Dutch and German. The Dutch word for bakery, however, is "bakkerij", while in German it is "Bäckerei". "Bakerei" is only used ...
Such place indeed exist and it is called Bricklink, a website dedicated to trading LEGO items. It has extensive history and great catalog of LEGO items found on the internet. Prices and quality are, usually, far better than you would find on eBay. And as an extra bonus, there are sellers from all over the world, so you are not limited to you own region.
Whilst there is quite a bit of clearance on the crane as it stands, the Container Ship (4030) was quite a high sided beast - although you can see that better on the catalogue page:
I would think that a bit of extra height from the hinge would be useful to make it over the edges of the ship - assuming you haven't raised the crane's base.
The alternative ...